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Article Title:
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The Last Frontier Of African Wilderness

Article Description:
====================

In this place, 870 km² of pristine landscapes and habitats are
set on the backdrop of the majestic Mt.Kenya. Complete
wilderness. Rich jungle, swamps and the rolling savannah are
disrupted only by wildlife, hills, rocks and 15 rivers destined
to pour their waters into the giant River Tana. That, my reader,
is Meru National Park... the last frontier of undisturbed
wilderness. 


Additional Article Information:
===============================

1618 Words; formatted to 65 Characters per Line
Distribution Date and Time: 2007-09-17 11:00:00

Written By:     Gerald Wanga
Copyright:      2007
Contact Email:  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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The Last Frontier Of African Wilderness
Copyright (c) 2007 Gerald Wanga
First African Safaris
http://www.firstafricansafaris.com



In this place, 870 km² of pristine landscapes and habitats are
set on the backdrop of the majestic Mt.Kenya. Complete
wilderness. Rich jungle, swamps and the rolling savannah are
disrupted only by wildlife, hills, rocks and 15 rivers destined
to pour their waters into the giant River Tana. That, my reader,
is Meru National Park... the last frontier of undisturbed
wilderness.

Meru National Park is located 80km east of Meru or 350 km from
Kenya's capital city, Nairobi. This Park forms part of a group
of protected areas along the River Tana which include the
adjoining Bisanadi Game Reserve to the east and the Mwingi
National Reserve to the south. Meru National Park is best known
as the area where George and Joy Adamson released their most
famous lioness, Elsa, back into the wild. Joy Adamson adopted the
lioness after George shot its mother in self-defense. It is also
the setting for George and Joy Adamson's book and Oscar-winning
1966 film "Born Free", about an orphaned lioness cub they
raised and named Elsa.

The park is enfolded by three huge rivers. River Ura to the
southwest, River Tana to the south and River Rojoweru to the
east. There are strict controls with regard to the numbers of
visitors at Meru National Park hence the absence of land rovers,
land cruisers and minibuses as one takes a safari around the
park. The strict controls are solely for the purpose of ensuring
as little disturbance to the ecosystem as possible. This is the
place to be if you are tired and bored of mass tourism. A place
for the discerning traveller. The various mountain-fed rivers
support swamps and river forests with assorted trees like figs,
tamarinds and the archaic looking doum palms.

The game drive will exhilarate your senses. Meru's intimate
scenery is enchanting. The emotions one senses once in this
untouched vastness are emotions that can be drawn by very few
places. One feels an unusual sense of freedom once one sees the
rolling savannah. Perhaps that's what the philosophers meant
when they said that every man is born free. My thoughts were
interrupted by the thundering roar of a lion. It is difficult to
spot the cat in the lush grassland but a large crowd of vultures
circling around a spot gave away its potential location. So our
guide who is adept at spotting game drove towards the area and...
Alas! There they were! I tell you nothing can prepare you for the
lion. Not even those wildlife documentaries. The beast is simply
majestic. The small pride of Lions was tearing into the side of
an unfortunate Zebra. There were some little cubs that looked
really cuddly but the female lion was very alert and you can
guess what would happen to anyone who would even dare cuddle
them. We could also spot some Hyena laughing in the distance
waiting to scavenge the remnants of the meal. According to our
guide there had been quite a battle between some hyenas and a few
lions some days back. The result? Six hyenas mauled to death. My
guess is that it must have been a territorial battle. Our
humourous guide also told us that a person in the wild who walks
while swinging his arms may attract a hyena that will want to
grab and eat the swinging 'meat.' Next up we saw the elegant
reticulated giraffe gliding in the distance. Its long neck craned
back and forth as it made its way into the distance. Of the big
cats the most difficult to spot is the leopard. This aggressive
and elusive solitary cat is indeed scarce to spot despite their
numbers being high in the park. Soon after, a group of Elephants
announced their presence with loud trumpeting. I spotted a bull
elephant empty its bowels and drop a large mound of waste the
size of a mans head. Their giant ears flapping sluggishly, we
watched them trudge towards a watering hole. Our unwelcome
attentions startled a group of gazelles that were grazing in the
grass and they scampered away. Something else that startled me
was how the game blended in effortlessly with the environment.
Their skin camouflaged them and spotting them was difficult to
the untrained eye. But thanks to our guide we were able to see
lots of animals. Other animals present in the Meru park
game-filled plains are the Big five, rare antelopes like Kudu and
Oryx, Bushbuck, Impala, Jackal, Dik-dik, Hartebeest, wild dog,
aardwolf, Mongoose, Reedbuck, Caracal, Vervet Monkey, Baboon,
Hippo, Ostrich, Eland, Steinbok, Porcupine, bushbaby, Bush Pig,
Waterbuck, Otter, Pangolin, Squirrel, Warthog, Shrew, Duiker,
Hyrax, Gerenuk, Oribi, Civet.

Riverine forests and swamps lay placid in the landscape and the
archaic looking doum palms add a mysterious ambience to the
swamps. I feared that an animal could be lurking behind the doum
palm waiting to pounce. Meru Natioanl Park is also a bird
watchers paradise. The lonely wilderness offers an uninterrupted
view of its bird population. The park has a bird list of over 300
species. They include the Peter's finfoot which is found largely
at the Ura River, Kingfishers, Weavers, the Pel's Fishing Owl,
Eurasian Bee-eaters and Rollers (These are best watched between
the months of October and March during the northern migration),
starlings and the elusive African Finfoot. . It may be
challenging to spot the birds due to the lush vegetation. Huge
inselbergs of basement rocks like Leopard rock and Mughwango can
be viewed too.

Back at the camp, just before sunset, the endless African sky
staged quite a sunset. Picturesque! Dusk was a breathtaking
melange of colours from crimson to reddish brown to golden brown
in the azure African sky. As I looked into the distance I never
wanted to return to the concrete jungle that is my hometown. I
wanted to live like that forever.

Elsa Kopje lodge was another highlight of my vacation. It is an
intimate lavish lodge that revolutionises the meaning of
personalised service. Over indulgence is allowed without feeling
bashful because after all it's a vacation and vacations don't
come often. The 9 guest cottages are built into the rocky natural
surroundings and designed to fit/blend into the landscape. Each
cottage has an open-plan outside bath where the splendid expanse
of the park can be viewed. And my, my, the night sky view is
overwhelming. The sky appears endless and dotted with shimmering
stars. I got that freedom feeling again. The ample stylish rooms
have large double-beds. Paved paths illuminated by lamps at
night, lead from each cottage to the cosy open bar, lounge and
dining room where gourmet meals are served. After a safari in the
wilderness, relaxation by the natural swimming pool which has a
spectacular view is recommended. You may swim or simply sit back
and sip wine, Champagne or a drink of your choice. The pool lies
on the edge of the cliff, and is frequented by iguanas and rock
hyrax, a small fuzzy creature. It's no wonder that travelers who
lodge at Elsa Kopje keep returning for more tranquility. At the
well stocked bar ask for Tusker beer. If you take alcohol, you
can't claim to have been to Kenya if you didn't take Tusker
which is available at the bar. Elsa is built on the original site
of George and Joy Adamson's first camp in Meru National Park. It
is Located on the Mughwango Hill in Meru National Park.

The other lodge is the Leopards Rock lodge. The unfenced lodge is
open to wildlife and overlooks a river that nests various birds,
Crocodiles and Hippos. Other wild animals and predators
frequently come inside the lodge to quench their thirst at the
river. The lodge has 15 opulent cottages with a private veranda
for each. It's tastefully furnished with teak furniture and
Persian carpets and rugs. It also boasts of a Jacuzzi, exquisite
cuisine, conference facilities and a lovely swimming pool with an
island bar overlooking Crocodiles. One may also savour a
sundowner on a huge rock dubbed the magical rock with the view of
Mt Kenya and Nyambene Hills in the distance.

Fancy some camping? There's the Offbeat Meru Camp. Offbeat Meru
Camp is a luxury semi-permanent camp located just outside the
park in Bisanadi National Reserve and positioned above the
beautiful Bisanadi River. This camp is made up of six spacious
tents, three twins and three doubles.  Ensuite bucket showers,
wash basin and flush loos are provided. The roomy tents are
equipped with huge beds, solar lighting and fine linen. There is
a large sitting room tent endowed with snug settees, a bar,
library and writing tables. A dining tent capable of sitting up
to 16 and a swimming pool are provided. Activities in this camp
include day and night game drives, walking safaris, bush
breakfasts, sundowners and camel safaris. The bush breakfasts are
a must if you visit this camp.

The trip was extremely satisfying when I learnt that most of the
Rhino and elephant population had been repatriated into the park
from other Kenyan game reserves. Wildlife in the park had been
decimated by poachers in the late 1980's. All the white rhino
had been poached and their tusks worth thousands of pounds hacked
off and sold. The restocking exercise resulted in the
largest-ever elephant translocation in East and Central Africa.
Each animal family group was captured and moved at one time to
ensure that their social bonds were not disturbed. Security has
been significantly beefed up including the building of one of the
biggest ranger camps with 129 housing units at the park's Murera
gate, to avoid a repeat of poaching witnessed in the 1980's.  It
is satisfying to see glory return to the Meru National park.




---------------------------------------------------------------------
Gerald Wanga is editor of First African Safaris. You can find 
more information about Tanzania, Uganda and Kenya safaris, 
as well as hotels and lodge bookings, on his website: 
http://www.firstafricansafaris.com  To find another 
African safari elsewhere on the continent, do visit 
http://naady.com/ for details.


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