I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.
I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used
test equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to
loosen up lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and
lettering.
On 7/31/2013 1:51 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:
Paul,
gas? What gas?
what soft plastic paint remover?
A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
Cheers,
Magnus
On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire
off is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might
expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas.
None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean
can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units.
Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have
started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya<[email protected]> wrote:
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
opamp
that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it
did not
turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't
been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
kinds
of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.
Ed
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