Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> writes: > > Paul's description is spot on. >
> > Once the bulb is clear, you are done. The real truth is > once it is clearer than it was, it is going to work better > than it did... When it is all the way clear, it is a good > as it was when it was new, and should last as long as a > new bulb would have. > > -Chuck Harris > > Peter wrote: > > > > > > paul swed <paulswedb <at> ...> writes: > > > >> > >> Chuck is correct I have done this trick on FRS units. The glass clears and > >> the lamp re-ignites and continues to work for a long time. Actually it > >> hasn't failed and this must be 2 years now. > >> Regards > >> Paul > >> WB8TSL > >> > Thanks to the help from members here I now have a locking FRK. My bulb looked pretty clear, and i couldnt find any deposits or "bits" inside, but decided to give it a good soaking at about 150 deg C using my hot air re-work gun for about 10 mins. I have checked it against my Racal ovened reference and found a discrepancy of about 0.8 Hz. Now the million dollar question...Can I be sure the FRK is good before I start to use it as my standard frequency? Is the FRK constructed in such a way that the frequency accuracy is assured, or do I need some way of verifying the FRK, or calibrating it. I dont want to trim my ovened reference to the rubidium, only to find the rubidium is not as accurate as I thought? Sorry if dumb questions, but just starting my quest for "time nut" status!!! Thanks Peter G0RSQ _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
