Hi

If you are doing your own antenna supply:

1) Make very sure it is current limited at some rational level (say 150 ma). A 
resettable fuse may be fine for this. 

2) Make sure you have some way to detect a short on the antenna. 

3) Put in some sort of surge suppression. A microwave compatible TVS at the 
antenna input is the best / first step. Some form of isolation to the main 
supply is a good second step.

4) At least rate everything so a 12V supply could be cobbled into the circuit. 
You never know when 
you might get a good deal on a high voltage antenna. 

5) Unless you are only running mag mount “car” antennas, you need +5 / +3.3 
selectable
on the board.

6) If you have to do your own RF isolation / DC injection, design it as a 
bandpass (or at least
a high pass) filter. The more energy you eliminate below 400 MHz, the less your 
TVS gets
hit with in most cases. 

Lots of fun..

Bob

> On Aug 5, 2016, at 10:51 AM, Nick Sayer via time-nuts <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
> 
> In designing boards with the Venus838LPx-T module, I must supply external 
> antenna power myself. This is in contrast to the PA6H I’ve been using which 
> internally supplies 3.3v active antenna power (and measures it for loading to 
> switch between the internal and external antenna. The Venue module does not 
> have an internal antenna).
> 
> I therefore have the opportunity to select between 3.3v and 5v power to feed 
> the external antenna. I could in principle do something more exotic, but I 
> can’t imagine another option that would be better.
> 
> So far, 3.3v has worked with all of the antennae I’ve used, but the sample 
> size is two (four if you count active GPS splitters in the mix).
> 
> In perusing the list, it sounds to me like modern antennae expect 3.3v, but I 
> thought I’d explicitly ask rather than assume.
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