[email protected] said: > Here are some pictures of the PSU and power connector area, if anyone has any > insight into what voltage this thing is expecting. What's confusing to me is > that the original marking, 20-72 V was crossed out, 48V written over the top, > and then the DIPs internally being set to 24A. I'm not really sure what the > A and B positions mean, either.
I haven't worked with the Z816A. It was common for gear of that era to work with either 24 or 48V. The input range was typically 2:1. Thus 48 meant anywhere from 36V to 72V and 24 meant 18 to 36. I have no idea what the A in 24A means or what the manual would say about the switches. The label has a 24B so maybe there are 2 input connectors. If it was on my bench, I would take it apart and look at the bottom of the power supply board and/or try to trace out the switches. That's not a high power switch so maybe it selects some switching mosfets. But I don't see any. So maybe the switch is good for the amp or 2 and maybe they run 2 in parallel. If it's designed for 24 or 48, it might not explode if run with 48 when setup for 24 so I wouldn't be too surprised if the label didn't match the switches. Maybe somebody tried it on 48 and it worked. > Is the female DE9 on this wired so I can just plug a USB-Serial adapter into > it directly, like a Trimble Thunderbolt, or do I need to make a null-modem > cable? The Z3811/12, KS-24361 L101/2 units that were available a few years ago send RS-422 (5V differential pairs) on a 9 pin connector. I'd put a meter or scope on some of the pins. If you see 5V, the pinout for the KS-24361 should be in the archives. Mine worked with the right set of direct connectios to a typical PC serial port. -- These are my opinions. I hate spam. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] -- To unsubscribe send an email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to and follow the instructions there.
