Wm. G. McGrath enlightened us
> Spam detection software, running on the system "genius.chateau.dec", has
> identified this incoming email as possible spam.  The original message
> has been attached to this so you can view it (if it isn't spam) or block
> similar future email.  If you have any questions, see
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] for details.
> 
> Content preview:  On Fri, 20 Aug 2004 08:51:23 -0700 Arnold Wiegert
>   <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: : Quite often there is a jumper to remove
>   power from the CMOS : memory, where the password is kept - presumably.
>   Removing the : jumper and keeping it off for some time - like about 10
>   min IIRC, : may/should return the machine to no password. [...] 
> 
> Content analysis details:   (10.0 points, 5.0 required)
> 
>  pts rule name              description
> ---- ---------------------- --------------------------------------------------
>   10 AUTHENT                Only spammers set names temporrily!
> -6.0 USER_IN_WHITELIST_TO   User is listed in 'whitelist_to'
>  6.0 USER_IN_BLACKLIST_TO   User is listed in 'blacklist_to'
> 
> 

Content-Description: original message before SpamAssassin
> X-Authentication-Warning: jupiter.toms.net: domo1945 set sender to [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> using -f

This stuff keeps landing in a spamtrap because of 2 settings in
spamassassin which I am unwilling to change and find it difficult to get
around. Jere's the AUTHENT rule.

header    AUTHENT      X-Authentication-Warning =~ /(?:sender|server|set)/
describe AUTHENT       Only spammers set names temporrily!

This is triggered by the warning above in each mail from the list.

The whilelist/blacklist combination is this
whitelist_to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
blacklist_to [EMAIL PROTECTED]

This catches all mail addressed by bulk mailers (e.g. to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]). What should happen is that mail to me will
receive a (balancing) blacklist & whitelist mnarkup. I am being spammed
by quite sophisticeted spammers and these rules are necessary, and
effective.

[snip]
> On Fri, 20 Aug 2004 08:51:23 -0700
> Arnold Wiegert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> : Quite often there is a jumper to remove power from the CMOS
> : memory, where the password is kept - presumably. Removing the
> : jumper and keeping it off for some time - like about 10 min IIRC,
> : may/should return the machine to no password.
> 
> This board is a little different. It does have a jumper J1 marked
> RTC reset. But it doesn't seems to have any affect. Normally it's
> open and as with any Ami Bios you hit delete to enter the bios at
> boot. But you get prompted for the current password before you can
> enter the bios, and of course I don't have it. 
> 
> So I've tried to boot with J1 set to closed. The bios still wants
> the current password.
> 
> Adapting your suggestion, I've left J1 closed overnight with the
> power off. Rebooting still wants the password.
> 
> And I left the power on with the jumper set for half an hour and
> then tried to reboot but the box still wants a password.
> 
> One item I found suggested that the CMOS may take days to empty and
> another said to be sure and leave the box unplugged as well as off
> to eliminate any AC power to the CMOS. Another said that the
> DS1287/1187 isn't affected by the reset jumper and can't be reset
> without the password. :\ Real encouragement there, eh?


Let's insert some reality here. removing the battery and shorting the
positive/negative (e.g. insert a few coins overnight) will definitely
flatten any battery. That will flatten any battery supporting a CMOS
(ram) or FLASH eprom.

It is not unknown for hardware smart alecs to put EPROM (Erasable
Programmable Read Only Memory) instead of flash in their systems. Eprom
is programmable by a programmer, and erasable only by UV light. This
prevents the Bios being overwritten by CIH or the like. Flash, on the
other hand is EEProm, i.e. Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only
Memory. Eprom usually is distinguished by a window in the chip under the
label.

Check the chip numbers: If it's a xx27Cxxx it's eprom - not erasable
If it's a xx28Cxxx it's eeprom. If it's something else, get the numbers
and tell me what they are.

FYI, the differences are these:

RAM - needs power applied (probably RTC, & maybe settings)
EEprom/Flash - can be erased by pc, survives without power or battery.
The memory of choice for the bios themselves. Can and does use a block
for holding the settings. Power requirements vary depending on the age
of the thing.
Eprom - UV(only) erasable ROM. Needs HV to program in most cases.
Ignores EEprom writes. 



> 
> Thanks for the advice btw, in a week of googling I'd not come across
> your tip about wait time anywhere on the net. It led to a lot of
> other stuff. I thought it was just set the jumper and go! :)
> 
>       ciao,
>       b.
> 
> PS. Here's the wildest answer I found: )))
> 
Don't take whatever he was smoking!!

-- 

        With best Regards,


        Declan Moriarty.

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