Matt, MAPP gas and a small torch doesn't pose much of a threat to pure copper. I've never had an issue, and I am not particularly skilled.
A few asked me about sources for Stay-Silv 15. Here is one example link from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/HARRIS-STAY-SILV-PHOS-COPPER-SILVER-BRAZING/dp/B0089EXHK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476307743&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+stay-silv+15 Those 7 sticks are enough to cross a lot of radials. I might have used 2/3 of that for an entire four square with ground level radials. If you want to use flux, helpful but not critical, the appropriate one is the Stay-Silv white flux. Something like this works just fine for a torch. It is also big enough for larger copper strap, braid, ground rods, etc. Very useful. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS4000KC-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-TS4000KC/203368730 73, Drew K3PA ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2016 14:56:10 -0500 From: Matt Murphy <m...@nq6n.com> To: Drew Vonada-Smith <d...@whisperingwoods.org> Cc: "topband@contesting.com" <topband@contesting.com> Subject: Re: Topband: Soldering radials? Message-ID: <canth69jz_yibkjmvr3qe_pazad+fxlmrumfrrqc4tjemxh6...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Is there any danger of damaging stranded copper wire by overheating it with a torch when soldering or brazing? 73, Matt NQ6N On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 2:41 PM, Drew Vonada-Smith <d...@whisperingwoods.org > wrote: > Radials are a lot of work to put in, and the expense of wire is > significant. I can't see any justification for not joining them the best > way available. IMHO, silver brazing. > > > I use and recommend Sta-Silv 15 (15% Ag, 80%Cu, 5% P brazing stick) and a > simple MAPP gas torch. Propane is not quite hot enough to work well. > Liquidus is 1475F. Flux didn't seem necessary, but you could use white > brazing flux. Sure, I spent $25 in solder over about 5 verticals, but of > what significance is that compared to the rest of the effort, to insure a > lasting joint? > > > Sta-Silv 5 is probably fine also, with a 1500F liquidus, But I prefer the > characteristics of the 15%. Very easy to work with. > > > 73, > Drew K3PA > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2016 08:52:40 -0700 > From: "Richard (Rick) Karlquist" <rich...@karlquist.com> > To: "Topband@contesting.com" <Topband@contesting.com> > Subject: Topband: Soldering radials? > Message-ID: <c04783d1-8f96-c17c-5921-fb6648e85...@karlquist.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > I'd like to get the latest thinking from the group > on soldering radials. What I currently thinking > is as follows: > > SOLDER SELECTION: > > 1. Tin lead doesn't hold up in the weather. > > 2. "Stay Brite" 3% silver solder (97% tin, > no lead) is known to work well, but is expensive, > and has a considerably higher melting point > than 63/37. > > 3. Lead free plumber's solder obviously works > in water pipes, but does it hold up outdoors > in the rain? What is the melting point? > > FLUX SELECTION: > > 1. Pure rosin. Hardest to work with, but minimum > corrosion issues. > > 2. Activated rosin. Easier to work with. What > corrosion issues are there? > > 3. Acid core plumber's flux. Very easy to work > with, very corrosive. Does this hold up in the > rain, etc? > > (I remember the dire warnings that Heathkit manuals > had about not using acid core solder, but I > guess that doesn't apply to radials.) > > CRIMPING? > > Has anyone tried crimping as an alternative to solder? > > Rick > N6RK > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Topband mailing list > Topband@contesting.com > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/topband > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Topband Digest, Vol 166, Issue 8 > *************************************** > _________________ > Topband Reflector Archives - http://www.contesting.com/_topband > _________________ Topband Reflector Archives - http://www.contesting.com/_topband
