I don't have the solution for your issue unfortunately. But I can eliminate a 
few elements:
Gnucash has switched to gsettings/dconf starting with 2.6.0. That means 
gconftool and gconftool2 changes are ignored by gnucash. As you discovered 
making the change in dconf is seen by gnucash 2.6.x.

As I mentioned on the gnucash mailing list, gtk as of 3.10 has
completely removed user control over the tool bar style. It is up to the
developers to handle it (which hasn't happened for gnucash so far). That
means unfortunately I don't know of any way to reliably control this
setting in gnucash 3.x.

>From the test result I infer gtk-query-settings only queries settings
for gtk3, so any result you get from that will not help.

The list of files you have tried didn't include
$HOME/.config/gtkrc-2.0
My own experimentation shows settings in this file take precedence over
$HOME/.gtkrc-2.0

In addition you may check for the presence of
/etc/gtk-2.0/gtkrc
Which may also set this as well as the gtkrc file for the current gtk theme 
Bionic is using.

Perhaps with the switch back to gnome shell Ubuntu has chosen to make a
very strict theme to enforce their style. But I have no idea about this
as I'm not on Ubuntu.

-- 
You received this bug notification because you are a member of Ubuntu
Touch seeded packages, which is subscribed to gtk+2.0 in Ubuntu.
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1765401

Title:
  gtk+ toolbar style setting ignored in bionic?

Status in gtk+2.0 package in Ubuntu:
  New

Bug description:
  I like big buttons with text labels below them in GnuCash toolbars.

  Fortunately, that's exactly what I had in Ubuntu 17.10.

  However, having upgraded to 18.04 this morning, suddenly the GnuCash
  toolbars are back to being small buttons with no text labels.

  There are SO MANY PLACES to set this preference, and yet, it's not
  working:

  $ gconftool-2 --search-key-regex toolbar
   /desktop/gnome/interface/toolbar_style = both
   /desktop/gnome/interface/toolbar_detachable = false
   /desktop/gnome/interface/toolbar_icons_size = large-toolbar
  $ gconftool --search-key-regex toolbar
   /desktop/gnome/interface/toolbar_style = both
   /desktop/gnome/interface/toolbar_detachable = false
   /desktop/gnome/interface/toolbar_icons_size = large-toolbar
  $ dconf  dump /org/gnome/desktop/interface/ | grep toolbar
  toolbar-style='both'
  $ gtk-query-settings | grep toolbar
  !                 gtk-toolbar-style: GTK_TOOLBAR_BOTH_HORIZ
  !             gtk-toolbar-icon-size: GTK_ICON_SIZE_LARGE_TOOLBAR

  I have no idea why that last one says "both-horiz" rather than "both".
  I honestly have no idea where that setting is coming from and can't
  find any way to find out. (I even tried running strace on gtk-query-
  settings to see what it was reading, and that didn't help.)

  I can't find any way to change this setting in gnome-tweaks.

  Is the ability to have large icons with text below them simply gone in
  18.04, or has the setting migrated to yet another location that I have
  to set it in now (it seems like Ubuntu and/or GNOME decides to move
  settings to a completely new backend just for the heck of it every few
  releases).

  ProblemType: Bug
  DistroRelease: Ubuntu 18.04
  Package: libgtk2.0-bin 2.24.32-1ubuntu1
  ProcVersionSignature: Ubuntu 4.15.0-15.16-generic 4.15.15
  Uname: Linux 4.15.0-15-generic x86_64
  NonfreeKernelModules: nvidia_modeset nvidia
  ApportVersion: 2.20.9-0ubuntu5
  Architecture: amd64
  CurrentDesktop: ubuntu:GNOME
  Date: Thu Apr 19 08:46:15 2018
  InstallationDate: Installed on 2016-01-16 (824 days ago)
  InstallationMedia: Ubuntu 15.10 "Wily Werewolf" - Release amd64 (20151021)
  SourcePackage: gtk+2.0
  UpgradeStatus: Upgraded to bionic on 2018-04-19 (0 days ago)

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