Essentially, there are two parts to your interaction with the e-mail system:
your mail client and your mail server. The mail client (in your case
Google's proprietary webmail interface) is the program you use to receive, read,
and send e-mails. The mail server (in your case Google's mail server(s))
provided by whatever mail service you use is where e-mails from thousands of
different clients are stored, processed, and sent on to other servers to be
retrieved by clients.

There are two types of clients: offline clients and webmail clients. Offline
clients (such as MS Outlook, Claws Mail, Evolution, etc.) are standalone
programs which download messages from the mail server of your choice for you to
read, and can also send messages to said server to be passed on. An online
webmail client (such as the Gmail interface, RoundCube, or SquirrelMail) are
mail clients hosted by the providers of mail services and accessible through a
web browser.

Most of the big corporate mail providers have their own proprietary webmail
clients for their own services, like the Gmail interface I assume you use.
RoundCube, SquirrelMail, Horde, and others are libre webmail interfaces. Many
of the smaller mail providers use them (such as Openmailbox, Ruggedinbox,
Riseup.net, etc.).

Anyway, recommendations. I would have to recommend Riseup, which I am a proud
user of. They offer POP, IMAP, and SMTP over TLS and SSL. You can retrieve and
send e-mails either through RoundCube or an offline client of your choice. They
offer 90 megabytes of online storage space for e-mails by default (though I
reduced mine to make space for others because I use an offline client anyway)
and the service is free of charge (though I would seriously encourage you to
donate- they survive solely on donations).

You can't just register for an account though- you have to apply. This is
basically a political test, because the service is really supposed to be for
facilitating activist communication and mailing lists. Though they warn of
potentially waiting weeks for a reply, they underestimate themselves- I got my
response the day after I sent in my application.

On the client front- I recommend Claws Mail. It's fast, light, packs
powerhouse functionality, has a nice interface, and is available in the
Trisquel repository.

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