Re: [Trisquel-users] Live DVD Trisquel 8.0 64bits issue

[softwdensky]

Yesterday, there were good waves in my home beach Kugenuma-Kaigan. A low  
atmospheric pressure was crossing Japan and it first was a strong south wind.  
Our beach faces south. So it was onshore. The waves were not so good but I  
like onshore because surfers　usually seem not to prefer onshore, so usually  
not crowded. We knew the direction of the wind will change to north in time.  
It changed about an hour before sunset. The waves became pretty good. We were  
exiting. My current exercise is to put my right leg on a little to the tail.  
A long time ago, I had a very good skate board for downhill. I loved the  
board but I fail into a bad habit of taking a too narrow stance when surfing  
because of the skate board's length, it was normal length for a skate board  
though. It put on unique trucks and bigger wheels.
I did not care about the bad habit very much so I could not get over it long  
time. I knew it does not look nice in the first place and it would be  
something bad for performance, but you may know, when taking off, I could not  
afford to think about such my stance especially when it is crowded, besides  
our beach is notorious for almost always really crowded (OTOH, as a good  
point, it gathers many girls from Tokyo in summer), furthermore, there are  
usually stupid surfers who do not know manners and rules. They drop in at  
ease as if it is a normal behavior in the point. I also was so when I was  
young, though. I could not afford to care about such a thing then so I can  
understand the feeling but still they are too terrible. Many of them seem to  
know what they are sneaking and dropping in. Besides some of them even say  
I'm sorry or something after dropped in. You don't have to say sorry but  
don't drop in. There are idiots who come close and do something to say sorry,  
or rather, to communicate. Fuck off from Kugenuma. But Kugenuma has such a  
climate. Refuse no one, even if he was the full of shit... someone will  
proabably hit him though. And my friends and acquaintances actually had to  
play the roll (hitting the idiots). There are some good reafs even in Shonan  
coast line but the locals tend to refuse strangers (sometimes in a bit  
sneaking manners or sometimes super directly "Here, locals only. Sorry (that  
means almost "go to Kugenuma")"). Anyway so I could not afford to care about  
my stance when I scramble for a wave with other surfers. Well, even if there  
is no other surfers, it is difficult though.
But yesterday, I was very serious about getting over the bad habit. Before  
yesterday, when I waited a wave, sometimes I remembered the exercise. I  
should put my leg on the deckpad... I should put my leg on the deckpad... but  
when actually a wave came, I forgot it at all. And remembered it later.  
"Oh... I forgot it again..."
So yesterday, I had a strong decision while waiting waves in the sea to keep  
thinking about the exercise, about the stance, until a wave comes and  
takeoff. But actually it was very crowded. And there were only a few bad  
surfers, there were quite a lot of good surfers. In an other sense, it is  
hard to take waves. But there is order to very better degree. They are  
usually fair. I like that kind of tense atmosphere. We don't know where the  
next set of waves will come, that is a beach break, so a lucky guy gets the  
wave. They don't move so much nor try sneaking. Mean surfers's ugly moves  
really stand out in such atomosphere. I got some good waves but when I took  
off, I completely forgot about the stance as usual. But I remembered it while  
riding frequently this time. Before that, I could not remember it while  
riding so often. But yesterday, I think when I got a wave, I always  
remembered it while riding. Then finally when I got the fifth of sixth wave,  
but in that time too, I forgot it when took off though, somehow my right leg  
was on the deckpad of the surfboard from takeoff. I did a top turn. It was a  
completely different feeling. I felt or understood an actual potencial of  
called surfboards. Like Oh, I see. Here it is about surfboards... Anyway the  
board moved sharply and held the power of waves well at the top and the  
bottom of the wave. It was a refreshing feeling. I have not surfed at all for  
several years. But I have played with the skate board many times and learned  
some tricks. After I started surfing again, the skate board skills have been  
maturing my surfing skills very fast. I feel that. Recently surfing is really  
fun.