I can't find good step-by-step documentation for
creating the right kind of images. Presumably the
gimp is a part of this, for lack of a decent tool.
Well, here's a start, gripes included. Some things
I've stumbled across while suffering:

You need to start with a good image. You want it
big, generally a side view, and free to use. Don't
worry about minor obstructions like wires; they can
be removed with the clone tool and smudge tool.

One might as well start with this. The clone tool
is useless until you do control-click to start it.
This would also be a good time to remove color casts
with the curves tool. Use the jpegtran program if
you will be making a greyscale stamp from a color
JPEG, since it preserves data better than the GIMP.

Ideally, one would do rotation last. This does not
work well though, because a gimp bug will destory
parts of an RGBA image. (learned the painful way)

Gimp has three notions of what we might call alpha.

1. the selection, which is a hidden 8-bit channel
   (not a binary channel).

2. the layer mask

3. the alpha channel

No reason is given for why the layer mask and alpha
channel both exist. You can have both. You can, very
awkwardly, convert one into the other. Many operations
will only work on one. You can also convert either of
these to or from the selection.

Then there's quickmask mode, enabled by a button on
the lower left of an image. It lets you paint the
selection as a red haze over the image. Woe to you if
your image looks like a red haze. Since the selection
can be (awkwardly) converted to an alpha channel or
layer mask, quickmask mode can be used to rough out
the needed alpha channel.

The basic problem when dealing with alpha is that you
can't see it. The GIMP does not provide a good way to
handle this problem. Ideally, one could drag-and-drop
arbitrary channels and layers and images all over into
each other, and could have many differently composited
views all with mouse pointers and simultaneous updates.

One can toggle layer visibility to flip between a layer
with the image and one with the future alpha channel.
With an actual alpha channel, you can't do anything.
With the data as a layer mask, you can use an awkward
and error-prone feature to choose what you see and what
you draw on: use control-click and shift-click on the
layer mask and/or layer (two side-by-side icons in the
layers dialog) to muck with this. You can thus draw on
the image while seeing the alpha channel, or draw on the
alpha channel while seeing the image. Most likely you
will, unintentionally and repeatedly.

Away from your stamp object, you have some dead space
on the drawing canvas. Fill this with a solid color to
get better compression. Near the edge of your stamp
object you will need to do some tedious pixel-by-pixel
painting. Most image sources have JPEG artifacts that
mess up the border. You'll need to color over these.
Use the color picker and pencil, or use the clone tool.
Extend the border of the image outward by many pixels
to ensure that undesired colors don't leak into the
image later as it is scaled, rotated, and so on.

Be careful to ensure that the solid colors of your
alpha channel (layer mask, whatever) and background
are really solid colors. To do this, first select the
region by color. Then, invert the selection. Now zoom
in at least 4x and look for the moving selection ants.
Color over them with the pencil tool set to full
opacity. Redo the selection to check if you are done.

When saving the image, be sure that you do not have a
floating layer. (a cut-and-paste result for example)
A gimp bug will mess up the output file if you forget.

Avoid rotation entirely if you can. The GIMP operates
without concern for gamma. Images can become noticably
darker near light-dark transitions, including any areas
with high noise.

Thin features like antennas need special treatment.
Paint over them with a broad brush, using what you
imagine to be the oringinal color. (the original
color is almost entirely lost to JPEG compression)
The original image can sometimes be used as the alpha
channel; use of the curves tool on a selection will
be required to get the right contrast. For thin
features that are nearly horizontal or vertical,
complete replacement is required to avoid aliasing.

(It's best to locate vertical antennas at locations
p*n+x where p is a power of two, n is a per-antenna
value, and x is a value shared by all antennas. This
ensures that the antennas are all equally blurry or
sharp when the image is scaled to common sizes.)



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