Ah, apparently the DX patch breaks the .desktop file format:
[Desktop Entry]
Name=Evolution
[...]
[Compose Shortcut Group]
Name=Compose New Message
Exec=evolution mailto:
OnlyShowIn=Messaging Menu
[Contacts Shortcut Group]
Name=Contacts
Exec=evolution -c contacts
OnlyShowIn=Messaging Menu
X-Ubuntu-Gettext-Domain=evolution-2.28
So the gettext domain is in the wrong section now.
** Package changed: gnome-menus (Ubuntu) => evolution (Ubuntu)
** Changed in: evolution (Ubuntu)
Importance: Undecided => Medium
** Changed in: desktop-file-utils (Ubuntu)
Status: New => Invalid
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Evolution desktop entry does not load translations
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/535650
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