I tried your 30-metric-aliases.conf. Didn't change anything. Do I have
to restart some service?

I don't have /etc/fonts/conf.avail/30-fonts-texgyre-aliases.conf.

Still I don't think that manually editing files which requires sudo is
the way to fix this bug. 99 % of affected people don't read this bug
report here.

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1317599

Title:
  Evince doesn't show "fi"-ligatures in a pdf file when tex-gyre is
  installed

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