Figured this out. Closing.
Cause:
I had intentionally put my home directory under mercurial, primarily to track
config files. .hgignore ignored everything.
The tortoisehg extension apparently ignores .hgignore. When I ran
nautilus with strace, the problem became clear: tortoisehg was
recursively stat'ing my entire home directory.
** Changed in: nautilus (Ubuntu)
Status: New => Invalid
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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1522177
Title:
nautilus sporadically very slow to start/refresh
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