I ended up adding

if [ -n "$PS1" ]; then
    # only for interactive sessions please
    if [ -f /var/cache/fontconfig/0bd3dc0958fa2205aaaa8ebb13e2872b-le64.cache-7 
]; then
       echo "color emoji will be broken in Chromium again (LP: #1858636) unless 
you"
       echo "sudo rm 
/var/cache/fontconfig/0bd3dc0958fa2205aaaa8ebb13e2872b-le64.cache-7"
    fi
fi

to my ~/.bashrc to warn me when this problem is coming back.  So far the
appearance of this broken font cache file correlates 100% with some snap
(any snap!  refreshing _lxd_ which has nothing to do with GUI apps or
fonts causes this!) getting refreshed, according to the timestamp
reported by snap changes.

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1858636

Title:
  color emoji not rendered; many bw emoji rendered as boxes

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