Found it!

Being able to change menu shortcut keys is something that's been in GTK
for a while, but it looks like it's turned off by default, and the user
has to explicitly enable it.

System->Preferences->Appearance->Interface, check box 'Enable editable
menu shortcut keys'. That does the trick.

Maybe I did that (or something equivalent) in Debian Etch a year and a
half ago, and forgot that I did it. Or maybe the feature was just
enabled by default at that time, and has since been disabled by default.

I have no idea why it works in Bluefish without being enabled, unless
Bluefish bypasses GTK and does menus its own way.

Anyway, thanks for the nudge, it helped me find the answer. Please close
this bug, because it's not really a bug, just a clueless user.

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can't make a new keyboard shortcut on gnucash menu
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/178225
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