Well I tried doing all that with disabling the icons.

It does remove the icons, but the background is still overlaid with
opaque black.

It didn't do anything immediately but it did after I logged in - just
removed the icons. The directory ~/.local/share/gnome-shell/extensions
wasn't there. Mind you it isn't there on a "virgninal" laptop which I
haven't done any such fiddling on.

How do I get the icons back though? gseettings reset org. (etc etc) runs
OK logged out and back in but no sign of them..... Just empty
blackness...

HOWEVER doing that did solve the mystery of the jpg file. Yonks ago I
had tried to set that file as a background to the login screen but it
didn't work and I gave up, thinking that the instructions on Ubuntu help
weren't working but it was ultra-cosmetic and I didn't bother (I leave
my machine running and logged in 24/7 and without screen lock - which
incidentally is working OK and safe as only myself and GF can get to
it).

But doing all that setting that file to be world-readable made it pop up
as the background to the login screen. (Such a beautiful picture,
sunrise over a sea port, just struck lucky in the early morning. Totally
irrelevant but I'll post if if people want to see it.)

It's clearly some weird opacity in the desktop display because if I
click "Activities" or press the Windows button I can see my background
image appearing hazily with a black mist and reduced-sized windows over
it as well as the desktop selection list again showing the background
image. But if I select a desktop, the background picture flashes up for
a second and then goes black apart from the "sliver" at the bottom.

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1970141

Title:
  [nvidia] Desktop icons desktop is black

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