I am browsing by going Places -> Home Folder, then View -> Show Hidden
Files and going into the .gvfs directory. From there I can select "gdh
on localhost". I rely on ~/.gvfs to work with remote .rar and other
large archive files with console / non-GNOME apps, since the 'unrar'
console binary obviously has no idea what the "smb://" protocol is.

gvfs-ls is lightning-fast:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]:~$ time gvfs-ls sftp://[EMAIL PROTECTED]/home/gdh/huge
>/dev/null

real    0m0.876s
user    0m0.104s
sys     0m0.016s

Because gvfs-ls is also able to provide directory listings of local
files too, I tried this:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]:~$ time gvfs-ls /home/gdh/.gvfs/sftp\ on\
localhost/home/gdh/huge >/dev/null

real    0m7.977s
user    0m0.160s
sys     0m0.068s

So, 10 times slower to access trivial 'filename only' data using gvfs-
ls.

I expect that Nautilus is several orders of magnitude slower because of
all the extra metadata it will be requesting for each file.

I have tried disabling all the previews in Nautilus so that it doesn't
count items in subdirs/generate icons for text-file, and 'Never' display
preview for local files, but it's still taking minutes to show the
contents of the 'huge' directory in ~/.gvfs/gdh on
localhost/home/gdh/huge

It's purely access via gvfs-fuse-daemon that is slow, therefore the
question about 'non gvfs fuse mounts' doesn't make much sense. (for
completeness, my NTFS partitions via fuseblk run as fast as ext3).

-- 
Nautilus unusably slow with large ~/.gvfs dirs
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/230374
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