I have a 41' YF which is a stretch 36DC.  Our generator is in the
lazarette (where is takes a beating from the weather).  The fwd
machinery space has the holding tank on the stbd side and the hot
water heater on a shelf way behind the air conditioners.  I thought I
mighr have to remove the hw heater because I kept finding fresh water
in the bilge (turns out it was the faucet washers in the shower
leaking BEHIND the shower panel) so I checked dimensions.  Sure enough
it won't fit through BUT the box on top of the a/c looks fairly easy
to remove and replace.  You might consider cutting out the old heater
and putting the new one behind the A/Cs.  Ever boat project results in
another project...

On Dec 7, 3:34 pm, waterguy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> How about measuring the access path so you know what the maximum size
> for a new one is and using a Sawzall on the old one and taking it out
> in pieces?  I recommend this with some hesitancy due to the proximity
> to your genset and the risk of sparks, but keep a fire extingusher
> handy and there probably wouldn't be a problem, especially as (I
> believe from the "D" in the generator model number) you've got diesel,
> rather than gasoline, power.
>
> Another possibility that occurs to me is that you might be able to
> disconnect the genset fuel line (and possibly the electrical
> connections), remove the mounting bolts, and shift it a few inches.
> Maybe get a couple of pieces of 1/2-inch circular steel stock to slip
> under the mounting pads to roll it on?
>
> On Dec 5, 1:28 pm, David Oates <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Dave W,
> > I like the way you think.  Actually, I have considered it and I don't think 
> > there is a very good alternative.  The only one would be sitting on the 
> > stringers in the center of the boat forward of the engines.  However, that 
> > would block access to two batteries and I really like the weight over where 
> > the heater is now.  The center isn't bad, but if I then moved the batteries 
> > to starboard... I don't know.  The two air conditioning systems are over on 
> > the starboard.  The boat seems to set "level" now.
> >  
> > DavidO
>
> > --- On Fri, 12/5/08, wiltfong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > From: wiltfong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: R & R water heater
> > To: [email protected]
> > Date: Friday, December 5, 2008, 12:04 PM
>
> > Have you considered leaving the old one in place and finding a new place 
> > for the replacement? After the new one is in, you could just leave the old 
> > one till a more convenient time such as a generator replacement or work on 
> > the electrical system. So the old one isn't doing anything..It doesn't 
> > weigh much when empty.
> >  
> > Dave W
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > In a message dated 12/05/08 09:54:55 Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL 
> > PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > #yiv2053795839 .aolmailheader          
> > {font-size:8pt;color:black;font-family:Arial;}
> > #yiv2053795839 a.aolmailheader:link    
> > {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;font-weight:normal;}
> > #yiv2053795839 a.aolmailheader:visited 
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> > #yiv2053795839 a.aolmailheader:hover   
> > {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;font-weight:normal;}
>
> > The water heater on my '84 42' Double Cabin has failed.  I purchased a
> > new one, but the R & R is going to be difficult because the heater is
> > located far on the port side, outside the Onan 8.0 kW (8.0 MDKD-3CR
> > 1A).  And the heater is 18 3/4" in diameter.  The only way to do the
> > exchange is to tip it on its side and slide it out over the back of
> > the genset, AFTER the electrical box is removed.  Anyway, this job is
> > worse than I expected.  I'm not sure how it is going to work.  The
> > only thing I can see to do is to disconnect about a hundred wires in
> > the electrical box and remove the box.  That is what I had planned to
> > do, but it is going to be harder than I thought.  I even measured
> > other areas that might provide access such as removing the cooling
> > system from the port engine or cutting a hole in the sole.  None of
> > those will work.  I'm going to squeeze my way in there tomorrow and
> > start testing (for power), tagging, documenting and removing wires.
> > Anyone have any thoughts on this project?
>
> > DavidO
>
> >  
>
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