Roger
Thank you for your interest.  The photos I included were of my old exhaust
riser.  It was original equipment on the boat and had worked fine so I
replaced them with the same thing.  I was getting more like a cup than a
thimble full of water out of the exhaust manifold when I loosened it up.  It
was definitely salt water rather than coolant.  All of this convinced me
that I would much prefer a dry stack.  I will let you know what the mechanic
finds when he finally gets to my boat this winter.  Any other suggestions
will most certainly be appreciated.
Thanks
Michael

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of sonofstrat
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 11:40 AM
To: UnifliteWorld
Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: HYRDOLOCK for the 3rd time 1978 38' Uniflte w
671 Nauturals


Michael: I was wondering if the design you show in the picture should
have more of a U shape to the outlet to reduce the backwash coming up
the back side of the boat. You stated that there was a thimble full of
water in the exhaust. From the past marine experience I have found the
exhaust manifold, if it is water cooled, should be pressure tested to
ensure that there are no pin holes in the casting. I changed a whole
bunch of them on V-12 Detroit marine engines as the casting had some
issues and water was getting in where it shouldn't have. Another thing
is have the mechanic pressurize the cooling system and remove the air
box cover to check for water or coolant enetering the piston from the
injector tube seat or a possible crack in the cylinder head. Just some
ideas to assist your problem.

Roger

On Oct 5, 5:46 am, "Michael McCartney" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi Alex and Roger
>
> All three times this happened to me I dropped the exhaust manifold and
found
> a cup or so of SALT water.  I think the only way salt water can get there
is
> though the exhaust system.  I pulled the injectors and was able to bar the
> engine over.  It always seems to happen when I am 100 or so miles from a
> mechanic that could put it all back together again.  Lots of time running
on
> one engine.  :-)
>
> I live in Scottsdale and leave the boat in Sitka for the winters.  I have
a
> mechanic there that will be taking it apart this winter.  His estimate is
> $3000 to $6000 depending on what he finds when he gets it apart.  This
> engine was running fine when we took the boat out of the water, it just
> smokes a lot until it warms up.
>
> I replaced the exhaust risers with new ones that were custom made ($3500)
> and identical to the originals.  The originals were thirty years old.  I
was
> never sure that the originals were the problem but a mechanic thought that
> they were.  I have attached a picture of one of them I replaced.  
>
> Good luck with your repairs.
>
> Michael
>
> PS  When all is said and done I think the idea of holding the stop button
a
> few seconds after the engine quits running is a big part of the solution.
> The 671 is still used by a lot of the fishing boats in Southeast Alaska.
 I
> have talked with a number of boat captains about my issues and have been
> given that pieces of advice a number of times
>
>  P1000804.JPG
> 290KViewDownload
>
>  P1000805.JPG
> 288KViewDownload
>
>  P1000806.JPG
> 285KViewDownload
>
>  P1000807.JPG
> 315KViewDownload
>
>  P1000808.JPG
> 335KViewDownload
>
>  P1000809.JPG
> 304KViewDownload



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