I agree, that's a good web page.  David Pascoe has written some good stuff
over the years.

I'm also a surveyor, and I look at a lot of fuel systems.  I think the most
important item regarding installation of an aluminum fuel tank is air
circulation.  If the tank is made of the right marine-grade aluminum alloy,
it doesn't need painting if it has good circulation under and around it.
 Whatever is used to support the tank off its shelf must be non-absorbent
and present no risk of galvanic action.  Note that David says don't use
rubber because it contains carbon-black, but there are closed-cell
(non-absorbent) foam products that will work.

I had a '72 Salty Dog that I re-tanked, and I found strips of closed-cell
foam, with pressure-sensitive adhesive on both sides, at a supplier in
the commercial glass business.

http://www.atlassupply.com/

The strip product is used to fuse two layers of glass together at the edges
in the production of thermal insulated windows.  It's neat stuff, and not
too expensive.  It's about 1" wide and 1/2" thick, with adhesive on both
sides.  I positioned strips of it across each tank bottom, directly under
the baffles inside the tank.  The tanks fit tightly under the cockpit deck
on the Salty dog; I secured them using pieces of 3x3" aluminum angle
screwed to the undersides of the cockpit deck.  Don't put a strip of wood
around the base of the tank to secure it - that will trap moisture!  If
your old tanks were installed in '97, that's only 15 years - those tanks
were installed wrong.

You said you're having tanks made - remember that federal law requires the
tanks to be built by a shop that knows how to pressure-test and properly
label the tanks.  And, because they're a very tight fit, it's easier to
install the tanks if they don't have welded spuds for attaching the fill
and vent hoses.  Have them built with threaded fittings welded flush  with
the tank tops and then install stainless steel nipples after the tanks are
in place.  I had my tanks built by Coastline Equipment in Bellingham, WA -
they built the original tanks for Uniflite, and they still have the
drawings on file.  They weren't too expensive, and they fit like a glove.
 I'm in Seattle, so I picked the tanks up at the factory.

http://coastline-tanks.com/

And, also remember that the feed lines from the tanks to the engines must
contain check valves at the tanks - again, required by law, as well as ABYC
standards, to prevent a siphon in the event of a leak.  And, the law also
requires a very specific type of fuel hose that must be labeled," USCG A-1"
 Don't scrimp on fittings or hose - replace everything all the way to the
engines while replacing the tanks, including fill and vent hoses.

There's more to consider if you want the installation to comply with ABYC
standards, which hardly existed when Uniflite was in business.  If you have
more questions or concerns, maybe I can help.  This user group is a good
place to discuss this stuff, since everybody who loves these tough old
boats can benefit by knowing how to safely update them.

John Strong
[email protected]
1981 37' Coastal Cruiser "SURPRISE"




On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 8:20 AM, John Ellison <[email protected]> wrote:

> Excellent article......
>
> On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 4:12 AM, Jerry Legate <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>> **
>> Check out the link below.
>>
>> http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:
>> [email protected]]*On Behalf Of *John Miller
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 20, 2012 10:45 PM
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Subject:* Re: [UnifliteWorld] aluminum fuel tanks
>>
>> thanks for all the info, my fear was if the coating did not stick to the
>> aluminum it would cause  much more harm than good, and looking at the old
>> tanks all the corrosion is where the insulation and the wood cleats(with no
>> bedding compound) collected moisture.
>> also the tanks had the original bonding wires(40 years old, good guess!)
>> probably had to do with the problem. thanks, John
>>  On Wed, Jun 20, 2012 at 6:01 PM, Russell Davignon <[email protected]
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>  FYI
>>>
>>> They used to try to protect the old black iron tanks by encasing them in
>>> fiber glass but all it did was trap water.  They also tried undercoating
>>> cars wirth some rubbber spray up North but the rubber eventually cracked
>>> and trapped water.  BOTH actually enchanced rust or corrosion.
>>>  Aluminum boats are NOT coated with anything topsides ( If the owner has
>>> half a brain paint  for looks is fine but then you have paint to maitain).
>>> Any good aluminum boat owner leaves them as is and lets the aluminum
>>> develop its own protective oxidation layer.
>>>
>>> Whatever youu do remeber dissimilar metals wil casuse a battery
>>> reaction!!!!!!!   Russ
>>>
>>> PS  If you want the real answer contact the Metal Boat Association and
>>> some one knowledgeable wll respond.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Be Holy or Die Trying"  St Stephen 33AD
>>>
>>>
>>> "Be joyful always; Pray constantly; Give thanks in all circumstances,
>>> for this is God’s will for you in Christ.....Test everything. Hold on to
>>> what is good. 1 Thessalonians 5:16
>>>
>>>
>>> "Since you cannot do good to all, you are to pay special attention to
>>> those who, by the accidents of time, or place, or circumstances, are
>>> brought into closer connection with you." St Augustine
>>>   *From:* J.M. <[email protected]>
>>> *To:* [email protected]
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 20, 2012 7:34 PM
>>>
>>> *Subject:* [UnifliteWorld] aluminum fuel tanks
>>>
>>> I'm having new fuel tanks made for my salty dog, has anyone had any
>>> experience with coating  them? I am having people suggest coating them with
>>> truck bed liner to protect  them from moisture being trapped which looks
>>> like why the old ones failed. The old ones had 2x2 cleats holding them in
>>> place, this is where most of the corrosion was happening. thanks for any
>>> advice. John --
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> ___________________________________________________
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>
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