Hey Chris, I do not have any drawings window frame has a lip on it app 1/2 inch from outside edge, cutting old sealant is hardest part windows came out and were very stable, I used marine ply for replacement wood since I work alone most times I had to apply. Sealant on inside of cut out place wood in place and clamp it, I used one piece for bottom one top and one forward so I needed to secure wood before reinstalling window. On top I think I had to stack 3/4 and add 1/2 To be flush with existing and I got wall paper that closely matched existing, ingot lucky and did not have to screw with headliner.
Sent from my iPad On Nov 26, 2012, at 11:11 PM, Seattle Chris <[email protected]> wrote: > Thanks for sharing your experience George. I think the best plan is to remove > the whole frame to see what condition the wood is in. Do you or anyone have > the window drawings? I'd like to see what I'm getting into. > How did you repair the rotted wood? I'm sure I'll find some rot. Did you also > replace the window tracks? Not looking forward to doing this project during > the rainy season in Seattle but need to dry it up. Thanks again. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "UnifliteWorld" group. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msg/unifliteworld/-/QIv9UOrLvCEJ. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/unifliteworld?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/unifliteworld?hl=en.
