Hi Guys,
Ive been following the talk on floors .I will throw in my experience for
what its worth.  I have a 78 uniflite 42 ft.  I have put in carpets but
slit a few of the floor areas open.  Not too much but it allows me to roll
up the carpet to various sides and gives me ample room to work. My greatest
problem is moving the couch not the carpet. With me money is a factor so I
did not have the carpets bound but i seamed them myself by using a normal
bic lighter. If they were professionaly seemed it would no doubt have
looked terrible with only parts seamed Now they lie dead strait and one
cannot even see where they are cut. They are now in for 7 months and
nothing is fraying. I originally tried hot gluing them but this did not
work. I have never had experience with a wet carpet.  We keep a entrance
carpet and a runner on the floor. John

On Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 3:47 PM, David Oates <[email protected]> wrote:

>  Bernie, I have been looking for the Teak and Holly material, but I
> haven't found it.  I also remember seeing laminate that had the Teak and
> Holly look, but it seems to be gone.  Any suggestions?
>
>  ------------------------------
> *From:* Bernie Meisinger <[email protected]>
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Sent:* Mon, April 8, 2013 11:10:41 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [UnifliteWorld] Carpet
>
>  Glad to hear someone suggesting wood floors instead of carpet. It seems
> ridiculous having carpet on a boat, when a hard floor is more durable. The
> argument against wood flooring may be that it's not as comfortable on bare
> feet or if it gets wet it will be slippery. Granted, a wet, hard floor can
> send someone ass-over-tea-kettles but a wet carpeted floor may never dry
> completely and can promote mildew, mold, and wood rot.
>
> A little diligence (keeping water off the floor) and maybe a properly
> attached throw rug here and there and you've got a boat that seems more
> durable and easier to service. Service becomes easier because the hatches
> on the floor will be simpler to open, close and store while working in the
> engine room.
>
> There are some good bamboo floors out there that come in a variety of
> colors and finishes. The great thing about bamboo is that most is made of
> solid wood, versus pressed or "engineered" wood. It would be best to attach
> the flooring to the plywood soles that are already on you boat, which means
> nailing the boards in place. I was just in a newer motor home this weekend
> that had click together engineered flooring, that hadn’t been nailed or
> glued in place, and the seams were separating. It looked pretty
> bush-league, and that's how it came from the factory. That would not have
> happened if it were nailed to the substrate.
>
> There are also very traditional looking floors called Teak and Holly.
> These are the floors that are usually seen on trawlers, sailboats and
> larger yachts. This floor has a dark colored strip of about 2
> inches alternating with a light colored strip of wood of about 1/4
> inch. The Teak and Holly comes as a veneer attached to a piece of half inch
> plywood. So you just measure and cut the plywood and glue or nail it in
> place. It's about $180-$250 for a 4 by 8 foot sheet and after it's
> installed it needs to be varnished or polyurethane properly. It gives a
> boat a very nautical look, and after all, why not have a nautical look on a
> boat?
>
> There's another slight drawback to using wood flooring and that is how to
> deal with the hatches on the floor. You would probably want to use a small
> piece of sacrificial wood along the seams. That wood will take the beatings
> if a hatch is dropped while putting back in place. Usually you'll see on
> yacht floors a half inch strip of teak around the hatch opening and also on
> the hatch itself. That way if the wood gets nicked or damaged you only
> replace a small bit of trim and not a whole piece which you may not be able
> to match in the future.
>
> All this sounds like a lot of work and carpet may seem even more appealing
> now. But imagine how "homey" your boat will look with hardwood floors
> as opposed to another dirty, damp carpet? Considering that most flooring is
> about $5.00 a square foot plus installation and fiddling around with hatch
> openings. In the long run, it sounds better than carpet or orange linoleum,
> which is the case with a lot of 1970's era boats.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kerrylebel <[email protected]>
> To: unifliteworld <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sun, Apr 7, 2013 10:14 pm
> Subject: Re: [UnifliteWorld] Digest for [email protected] -
> 3 Messages in 1 Topic
>
>
>
>
> Do you have any pictures?  What about engine hatches in the floor?  How did 
> you
>
> deal with those seams?  I am considering pulling up my carpets (kids trashed
>
> them) and replacing with laminates.  I've talked with several places and they
>
> say the newer stuff that isn't just compressed sawdust but has real particle
>
> board as the backing works just fine on boats now.
>
>
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 9:12 PM, Big John Bates <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Did my 76 Sedan 36 in laminate, durable & awesome looking. Go ahead, get it
>
> wet ;) Not so pricy but I don't have the exact cost
>
> >
>
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