Cetol is great at resisting UV degradation, but I don't like the 
pumpkin-orange color.  I prefer to stain bare wood (usually Philippine 
mahogany on Uniflites) with an oil-based stain, like Minwax.  I used to use 
Behr, but I don't know if they make an oil-based stain any more.  I 
generally use Natural color stain, or maybe Golden Oak on light-colored 
wood.  The order is:  sand with 180-grit until smooth, wipe down with 
acetone, then stain (tack off with a tack cloth right in front of the area 
you're staining), let dry, sand with 220-grit, then varnish using your 
choice of varnish thinned by about 25%, let dry, sand with 220, wipe down 
with acetone.  For coats 2 and 3, varnish with 10% thinned, tacking off 
right ahead of you, and sanding and wiping down between coats.  For coats 4 
- 10, apply varnish full strength, scuff-sanding with 320-grit, with the 
usual acetone wipe down and tacking before application, etc. etc.

My personal preference for varnish is Epifanes Wood Finish (gloss or satin 
finish).  Has the consistency of honey and builds up nicely.  Also has a 
72-hour open time between recoats (as opposed to 24-hour with Epifanes 
varnish).  But preferences of varnish are guaranteed to start fights, so 
this is just my opinion.  

Once you've laid a good basis, upkeep depends on how much direct sunlight 
it gets, because the UV is what kills it.  In the Northwest, a once-a-year 
light sanding and a couple of finish coats should be all that's required; 
but in South Florida, it could be a four-times-a-year job on exterior 
brightwork.

I cannot too highly recommend that you pick up Rebecca Wittman's book, 
"Brightwork Companion," which contains all the woodworking information in 
her massive tome, "Brightwork."  By all means, pick up "Brightwork" too, 
but it's more of a coffee-table picture book of beautiful woodwork, with 
accompanying text.  The "Companion" is what you want to have by your side 
when you go to do the actual work. As low as $14.87 new on Amazon.

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