To really make a recommendation, I would need to see the condition and the extent of the decay.
I don't know of any local contractors who I can recommend, but this is the sort of work I would try to do myself. Wood repair - I would personally not recommend using bondo - I would go to the West Marine (On Deleware Ave, not far from the UA Riverview) and buy their epoxy - it is intended to be used with wood. This works well as a consolidant, but tends to be a bit too hard for wood fills. Better for fills is an epoxy called ConServ - I can find their website if you're interested, or Abatron makes epoxies that are compatible with wood. Metal repair - I would really need to look at it to make a recommendation. If you have any more questions, I would be happy to answer them in more detail. Christine --- Jeff Abrahamson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Tue, Jun 03, 2003 at 09:04:08AM -0400, Al Krigman > wrote: > > [36 lines, 308 words, 1821 characters] Top > characters: etnioash > > > > In a message dated 6/2/03 7:12:19 PM Eastern > Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > writes: > > > > > Does anyone have a reference for someone who can > rebuild the dentils > > > and other detail on Victorian houses? I have a > bay with some rotten > > > dentils and another with some rotten metal work. > Not a lot of work, > > > but special enough. > > > > > > > Dentils: You might consider taking the existing > wood dentils down > > completely -- if they're beginning to decay, > fixing part may not > > preclude further degeneration later. Lowe's has a > good selection of > > expanded foam mouldings, including several sizes > of dentil crown > > mouldings, that you can use to replace what you > have. I dare anyone > > with less than a PhD in architectural restoration > to tell the > > difference between these elements and the "real > thing." > > > > Metal work: If the rotting isn't too extensive, > you might try the > > solution we've used with success. Bondo. The stuff > Pep Boys (et all) > > sell for repairing car bodies. Once it hardens -- > typically half an > > hour since it's a two-component epoxy product, > it's easily sanded > > and -- when painted -- blends in perfectly with > the metal (as you'd > > expect given its use for auto body work). > Depending on what you have > > to "fill," you might have to use this in > conjunction with some kind > > of structural support medium -- we've used wire > lath, fiberglass > > cloth, and -- when there's "nothing" behind the > metal, a > > foam-in-place product such as "Great Stuff;" with > the foam, let it > > harden (it'll expand inside and outside the area), > then trim off the > > excess with a margin of about 1/4 inch "inside" -- > it can be very > > rough -- then apply the Bondo. > > Good suggestions, thanks. > > Of course, I still need someone to do the work. It's > more time on a > ladder than I want to do. > > -- > Jeff > > Jeff Abrahamson <http://www.purple.com/jeff/> > GPG fingerprint: 1A1A BA95 D082 A558 A276 63C6 > 16BF 8C4C 0D1D AE4B > ---- > You are receiving this because you are subscribed to > the > list named "UnivCity." To unsubscribe or for archive > information, see > <http://www.purple.com/list.html>. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com ---- You are receiving this because you are subscribed to the list named "UnivCity." To unsubscribe or for archive information, see <http://www.purple.com/list.html>.
