Don,
A good example of a hybrid Stage 7 is detailed below ... Patrick Ahern
posted this a month or so ago and I think it demonstrates what you are
looking for. I thought this was on the "list" site as a modification
etc .. and I missed it but I am sure it is in the archives, (hopefully
Patrick won't mind that I am re-posting his stuff). As far as your
dealer stating that NOS is better with a stage 7 instead of a stage 1
... or stock for that matter ... I don't know where that comes from
and you will have to ask him what his reasoning is there because I
don't have a clue and can't imagine what difference it would make.
With a nitros setup what ultimately becomes the extra air we are going
to burn originates in the bottle and you provide an extra fuel supply
to burn it up ... The nitros system could frankly care less what you
were doing for fuel and air prior to your pushing the button ... as it
takes care of that itself ... Perhaps his headpipes are too small or
something, (sorry .. current joke that is circulating) ..... Anyhow
... go to the NOS site and buy the 4cycle over 750cc kit I think ...
check out this site ... http://home.wxs.nl/~mverver/ and look at the
pictures of Thomas Powell's installation on the list web site at ....
http://www.sayegh.org/nitrous.htm ............. here is Patricks post
.....
Start <<<<<<
V-Maxers; -- For you guy's and gal's that want to go for a
DYNO JET Stage 7 and want to keep the V-Boost set up
and the air box I have your solution. This includes how to
pay less for your Stage 7. After installing my setup my
V-Max pulled 122.8 HP first time out without any motorcycle
mechanic intervention.
1. From DYNO JET order a Stage 1 with Stage 7 needles
( DNT 426 ) and Corrector jets ( DCO 402 ) and the tool to
put in corrector jets ( DT001). Also order 4 ( DJ 175 ) main
jets. Cost is $140.97 plus shipping. Call DUSTY at DJ. Ask
Dusty to send you a copy of a DJ Stage 7 instructions.
800-992-4993. Be nice, not everybody at DJ wants to be
this accommodating.
2. Replace stock filter with K&N replacement if you haven't.
Take off 'Y' manifold of top of air box. Trim plastic on air box
lid to conform to filter shape. Trim 1/4" rubber lip off entrance
of K&N filter. Thats all for the air box.
3. Follow Stage 7 instructions for jet and needle instructions.
Don't bother putting needle position 4 down, this is way to rich.
Go to 3 down and you will probably end up at 2 down like I did.
How do you tell the needle is rich? When you are going down
the highway at 75-90 MPH the motor at a steady speed has a
gargle or burble sound instead of a nice purposeful drone. I'm
sure DJ's 4 down setting is to start you out rich.
4. Almost everybody that has a stage 7 uses DJ 175 on the mains.
It seems to be a good street setting. I have the feeling that DJ 170
might be a better DYNO setting because of the leanness.
5. I could not find a definitive setting on the idle screws with the
v-boost open so I set the idle screws at 2 1/2 out. Works just fine.
Set idle around 1200-1300 RPM.
6. To V-Boost or not to V-Boost ? That is the question.....
My setup is with the V-Boost open. I tried both ways. I liked
open better because of the FAT midrange. Some claim the peak
HP is the same. Peak HP is always with V-Boost open on in both
cases. My recommendations are designed for V-Boost open.
The down side of V-Boost open is a rough idle ( it has a look
at me quality ) and sometimes poor starting when cold as in my
case. My V-Max has always been a poor starter when cold so
what I did was put a reverse polarity switch on the servo motor
that operates the V-Boost. Others
have used cables. The switch ( IMHO ) is the easier install. When
starting I just close the V-Boost. When the engine warms up a tad
I open the V-Boost. I also close the V-Boost in bumper to bumper
traffic for a nice stock idle and easier putting along. For
instructions
on switch contact me.
7. For everything to work right your slides need to be free and clean.
You also need to synch your carbs. Float levels can have a effect on
your idle mixture. After all is installed and you have this problem it
can be corrected easily. Contact me for the solution.
My setup pulled 122.8 HP with a very heavy Bridgestone tire
(9 lbs.+ ) and a hurried Dyno session. I had to drive 80 miles
to get there. With a little planning and some leaner mixtures
on the main jet I feel you should be able to do better on the Dyno.
My present setup is KICK A*&fun and runs just perfect. The
operator of the DYNO George Babor of Babor Performance
Motors of Clearwater, Fl , was impressed and felt the jetting
was just right. My reading was the best he had seen of numerous
V-Maxes he had done.
Patrick Ahearn
VMOA #570
End <<<<<<<<<<
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----- Original Message -----
From: Don Seel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Stage 1-7 Hybrid
> I have read on the tech list about the "Stage 1-7 hybrid".
> Can anyone walk me through the specifics of what this
> is? I am in the process of ordering a Hindle 4-1 and a
> Dynojet stage 1 kit, but was told by my dealer that
> Nitrous will work better on a Stage 7 equipped induction
> system than on a stage 1(gotta plan for the future).
> Is there any truth to this ?
> snip <
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