Thanks a lot Eric...........
That's all I can say after reading your ample instructions. I should get the unit
within five working days, but the work that lies ahead of me after reading your
explanations seem to be more like a work of art than a mechanical chore. One way or
the other you did a terrific job and I hope I can get close enough to your achievement.
By the way, how does the Speedo work, does it need some calculations such as wheel dia
and so on to be introduced to the counter logics?
Best regards,
Charles ( [EMAIL PROTECTED] )
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Harnish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: V-MAX TECH LIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 10:34 PM
Subject: Installing the SPA Tachometer
> Fitting The SPA Tach
> Remove The speedo & disassemble the speedometer . When working with the
> components always work on a somthing like a clean heavy towel through
> out the process to keep from scratching the parts . Place aside the "O"
> ring & the black metal ring . You will not reuse them.
> Using a screw driver peel up the lip on the speedo bezel . Take your
> time . Work it up a little at a time working round & round 'til the
> speedo comes out .
> Take the bezel ring & using a bench grinder, grind the wrinkled edge
> back to the fold line. Work slowly taking off a little at a time .
> Next look at the housing & you will see a line or mark from where it
> fitted into the bezel . I used straight cut aviation snips to trim the
> housing at the mark . This will leave a small amount of the cut out for
> the trip meter knob, but it will be covered up when you put it back
> together .
> Now you need to get the mounting bracket to fit on the SPA tach. Mark
> the bracket so you know which way is up . Look at the back of the tach &
> you will see two studs & two screw heads . We are going to mount the
> bracket where the two screw heads are . The studs are clocked wrong . I
> left the studs in for water tightness . Grind the bracket to clear the
> lower left stud until the holes on the bracket rubber pieces line up
> over the screw heads . Now you will make the mounting system . I cut two
> pieces of 9/32 steel tubing just a little shorter than the thickness of
> the rubber mounts on the bracket . Then I cut two pieces of 7/64" rubber
> vacuum line a little longer then the thickness of the rubber mounts .
> Take out the screws on the back of the tach & replace them with ones
> that are long enough to mount the bracket.
> Here is how it goes . Steel tubing in the holes of the rubber mounts,
> vacuum line pieces inside the steel tubing, screws through the rubber
> line with flat washers & lock washers or blue lock tite . Tighten the
> screws 'til the flat washer contacts the steel tubing .
> The next step is to assemble everything . Take the bezel & cut a piece
> of 3/16" od rubber tubing that will lay in the front lip of the bezel. I
> found some clear tubing from a hardware store that was perfect . Cut it
> so that there is very little gap at the ends . You will use a little
> silicone to seal this area during final assembly. Next install the
> glass. Now take the rubber ring that was on the speedo & install it on
> the tach . Make sure that it is rolled back towards the rear of the tach
> & it is on squarely . Using a pair of scissors trim off the outter edge
> of the rubber ring 'til the tach slides into the bezel tight against the
> glass & the glass is tight against the rubber tubing . Next fit the
> housing & trim the area where the mounting screw was until the housing
> fits as deep into the bezel as possible & the back area clears the
> bracket . I used a Dremel Tool . Push hard on the housing . You want to
> get as deep as you can into the bezel .You should get about a 1/8"to
> 3/16" penetration . Find three of the smallest screws that you can find.
> I used what is called miniature machine screws and trimed the length to
> fit . The heads of these screws are 1/16" across. Use the proper length
> of screw to pass through the bezel, housing,& pass over or into the
> rubber ring on the tach, but not touching the tach body . Clean the
> glass & tach face of marks & prints . Get some help from someone . Here
> is how it goes . Install the clear 3/16" od tubing into the bezel with
> the gap in the down position or 6:00 position of the tach &
> place a dab of silicone to seal the gap . Install the glass , the tach
> with the bracket & wiring harness installed . Install the housing &
> while applying good preassure down on the housing & using the proper
> drill bit, drill three holes to install the screws . One on each side of
> the opening where the bracket comes though & one at the 12:00 position .
> Take the housing back off and redrill the holes in the bezel just
> slightly larger than the screws . You want to thread into the plastic
> not the bezel . Reinstall the housing and using a dab of super glue on
> the heads install the three screws . The last thing is cut a piece of
> rubber or what ever and super glue it on the bracket between the bracket
> & housing to give it some extra suport to keep it from rocking back &
> forth . The wiring is connected by connecting the red wire
> of the SPA harness to the grey wire on the back of the factory tach &
> connect the SPA black wire to the black wire on the back of the factory
> tach . Disregard the shield ground & program or set the SPA tach to two
> cyls. I mounted the speed sensor with a simple "L" bracket attached to
> the rear of the rear brake caliper support bracket & mounted the magnet
> to the brake rotor with an epoxy glue . Set the SPA tach to one pickup &
> remember that the sensor is polarized .
> This is just a road map to show you how I did it . I'm sure there are
> different ways to do this . There is another way to mount the tach buy
> using the original white plastic housing & rerolling the bezel back on .
> It is easier but it leaves the hole in the housing where the odometer
> knob was . IMHO my way is much more work but a cleaner install & more
> water resistant . Have fun and enjoy .
> Eric H.
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