I hear that the Eddie current dyno's are very hard to calibrate. My friend Jim
had
his highly modified ZL1000 tuned on one. He said the operator could only do 6th
gear roll on's and NOT AG's (all gear). How are you supposed to get main jetting
close without AG's? Unless the dyno operator doesn't have a clue? More shops
have the dynojet. Also, you can download Dynojet's "PEP" viewer and look at the
dyno runs you have done with the same desktop as the Dyno operator's PEP4
software. This is were I stare at mine to figure things out until 4 in the
morning......
Stan
#843
steven detamore wrote:
> Rey,
> that's great info! you can also go to www.factorypro.com
> if you want to find out somemore about the eddy current dyno thing. seems
> they've been doing it for some time now.
> steve #1131
>
> >From: "Rey Kirkman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: V-MAX TECH LIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Re: Dyno Testing
> >Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:15:59 -0700
> >
> >There are dynos and there are other dynos.
> >
> >Received today a Buell magazine called Battle 2 Win. (I also have a
> >Buell),
> >which interviewed Gary Valine, who is runs Buell's special project dyno.
> >There is a comparatively recent dyno development to the the Dynojet dyno.
> >Dynojet dynos are relatively simple. Most of you know that the motorcycle
> >drives a drum and the dyno's computer calculates hosepower and torque as
> >the
> >drum rotates.
> >
> >The recent development to the Dynojet dynamometer is an "Eddy Current
> >Brake", which, according to Valine, is a Godsend in doing steady-state
> >developemnt work.
> >
> >"The standard dyno is limited in that you can only do acceleration to full
> >throttle runs because once you reach a steady state , the power required to
> >keep the drum rolling is a fraction of that needed to accelerate it. And
> >this is fine if what you're looking for is a horsepower and torque curve.
> >However, if you'd like to tune and develop a motor at give rpm settings...
> >a standard dyno won't help you. That's where the eddy current brake comes
> >in.
> >
> >Think of it as a very large disc brake attached to the dyno's drum. But
> >instead of being acted upon by friction pads, its rate of turn is
> >controlled
> >by large adjacent electric magnets. As the dyno operator increases the
> >current flow to these magnets, the magnetic force - the eddy currents they
> >procuce are also increased, retarding the speed of the brake and,
> >consequently the drum.
> >
> >Let's say you want to tune the motor at 3000 rpm. Without the eddy brake,
> >once you reach that figure, maintaining it would take only a fraction of a
> >horsepoower... virturally no load on the motor. However, with the eddy
> >brake, the operator can 'load' the motor to a point where it's tricked
> >into
> >thinking it's acelerating, the same as if it were being ridden on the
> >street but, in our example, it is being held at 3000 rpm. Being able to do
> >this allows the dyno operator to determine optimal ignition and fuel
> >settings."
> >
> >Another tip to assure that your dyno readings are accurate and repeatable
> >is
> >to run your motor normally to operating temperature. Then, turn it off for
> >fifteen minutes before begining the dyno run. The waiting period allows
> >heat to permeate throughout the motor.
> >
> >Rey Kirkman
> >VMOA #439
> >
> >
> >.............................................
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> >.............................................
>
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