Hi Charles,
I was on vacation last week. I won't reiterate what
larry already wrote. The instructions will make more
sense when you are actually looking at the bike.
If you have any questions at all let me know.
Mike
I installed the same mounts as Mike Lesicko
(nicely manufactured by
Scott McKelvey BTW) so perhaps I can clarify some
things.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:>
> When he states"ALSO LOOSEN TOP BANDS UNDER ALL 4
CARBS" does that
mean I have to remove the carbs? and if not, why
loosen them?
No..........just loosen the band clamps to allow
removal of the air
box. We're freeing up space so we can "move" the
engine around.>>
> In point 3 you loosen the radiator and you pull
forward, but how
much? Is it supposed to just stay there hanging or
what? Do you slacken the
hose clamps at all?
Just remove the mounting bolts and allow the hoses to
support
it........it will spring forward and you can support
it with a tie-wrap.>>
> I understand that all exhaust pipes have to be
removed from the
cylinder heads completely, but do you need new gaskets
to replace the used ones?
I purchased new ones........you might get lucky by
turning them 180
degrees. An exhaust leak would be unpleasant after
all this effort, though.>>
> "Twist and pull out lower left rubber mount".......
the original
mounts as far as I understand are made from two
bushings with rubber
solidly attached to them and the outer bushing should
normally have a very
tight fit on its housing, so how on earth can you just
twist and pull
them off? should you use a special extractor? I need
to know before I
embark myself in this ordeal.
The original mounts are a steel tube encased in
rubber. They will
pull right out of the frame with minimal effort.>>
> "Use a pry bar to help move the engine around!!
Slowly raise jack
up, watch U-joint it will need to be turned so it hits
the gas tank at an
angle that will allow engine to be raised enough to
pull old mount out.
You may need to remove the U-joint".
> Three doubts here, move the engine around???? and
You might need to
remove the U-joint???? Could someone explain what
moving the engine
around means and the U-joint, is this the axle
attaching the shaft to the
engine output drive? and turned so it hits the gas
tank, I need a bit
more explaining. One thing is clear, when I do this
mod I will take
pictures of each step so someone else can benefit from
my experience, the
same way I use Mike's information right now.
The rear mounts are the b*tch.......You have to get
the engine high
enough so you can clear the tabs on the frame to
remove the "old" and
insert the sold mounts. The universal joint can be
turned so that the
motor can be lifted higher. I ended up loosening the
gas tank to get the
extra height.......I wasn't comfortable removing the
universal.
joint.You need to "move" the engine around with
prybars because you need to
have the rear mounts drop in "together". You have
to get both mounts lined up at same time. It's an
extremely tight fit
and you can't cheat by getting one side at a time.
Also remember to pull the rubber plug on the swingarm
when
re-installing it. It will help you align the
splines.>>
> Finally I would like more in detail what opinion you
have (all that
have done the modification ) about vibration and how
you overcame it,
mirror buzz, hands becoming numb after a long ride,
feel the tingle on
your feet and any other comments you care to have.
Regarding high speed
handling I have no doubts it will improve in a big
manner. Just thinking
about how it will lock the huge square motor cage,
making the engine
part of the frame, I'm sure it will be worth it.
I would agree with the comments of Mike and
Paul........the slight
increase in vibration is only noticeable on the first
ride. It's not an
issue for me anymore. No regrets.
Hope this helps, Charles. It's a lot of work.......but
I am certainly
glad I did it. Best of luck!Regards,LarryVMOA#114
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