Tony,
Just a thought before getting too crazy about this ....
======================
Too late. It's already made me crazy.
======================
the Nissan
water temperature switch that operates the fan is one thing ... The
sensor that operates the temp gauge however is a completely different
unit and something you might want to consider since the indications
you saw on the temperature gauge is the basis of your complaint.
=============================
Now you have me wondering. I am "certain" I could FEEL the bike heating
up to an abnormally uncomfortable level as I was stuck straddling it in
traffic.
But...it did NOT overheat in the typical fashion,ie: spewing hot fluid
out the overflow . . .not a drop escaped that I could detect.
Nor did it balk, hesitate, or stall.
Also to further support your suggestion, it STARTED every time with
minimal complaint. Recall this is a yet to be "broken in" new Tourmaster
motor. It has a new battery and starter but I am certain its a bear to
turn over compared to stock...without the real or imagined overheating
problem.
Hmmmmmmm.
===================================
One easy test would be to
start the bike and let it idle until the temp comes up ... and note
where the fan actually comes on .......also where it shuts off.
===================================
This was done as soon as I got back from work the next day.
(Here comes the crazy part)
All systems were functioning normally.
The motor fired right up. The fan was monitored as the temp indicator
swept upward, at about the middle point the fan came on. A felt tip
marker was used to place a hash mark at that point on the gauge. 20
minutes later the fan continued to run while the indicator stayed the
same.
ZERO PROBLEM.
I HATE when stuff happens like that.
Shutting off the motor, and flipping the key to on (allowing the fan to
continue to blow) 5 minutes later the fan switched off as the temp was
lowered further still.
Again, indicating all systems are normal.
My friend suggested rewiring the switch so the engine fan has juice and
be enabled to run even with the key off. His ZX9R does, as do most
crotch rockets. Cooler is better was his logic, and I likely will mod
the switch.
==========================================
If the
fan comes on "late" and shuts off while the gauge indicates that the
temp is still too high ... then either the fan switch is now out of
calibration and needs to be replaced or the temperature gauge sending
unit is not correct.
==============
Nope, not the problem.
=============
At 176 degrees F the sensor should read between
47.5 and 56.8 ohms ... at 212 degrees F it should be reading between
26.2 and 29.3 ohms. If you have oxidized connections on the sensor
connector then the resistance will be higher than it is supposed to be
and you will get an abnormally high reading on your temp gauge. Of
course if the sensor is out of calibration then you are likely to get
anything.
===============
This is the kind of information which makes the internet THE way to
track enthusiasts interests. No print medium can compare to the live
give and take between so many folks who have ...been there...done that,
and then SHARE the information.
Oh-oh I hear The Music starting to play in the background . . .
I support the V.M.O.A. and solicit every V-Maxer to join, but THIS LIST
is 100 times more valuable to me.
I am grateful to Paul Sayegh - Mike Sayers - et al - and all the other
mecho-electronic pioneers who go through all the hoops to make this
possible.
=================================
I guess you see where I am going with this .... (that you possibly
were not really overheating .. just looked that way).
================================
I wish I could make myself believe this. One indicator is no water in
the oil, or any "sign" of trouble. But MAN - did that bear get HHOOOTTTT
just sitting on it.
Something had to be happening.
Now, I have come up with a theory. How about the thermostat is fritzn'!
I feel its possible that the dam thing stuck closed, and opened after it
cooled a bit, only to stick closed again in the tunnel.
Of couse, if it stuck closed how could I have ridden over 150 miles
home? Maybe it unstuck itself. The clues - I have to believe - go back
to the 38 mile long 100 mph blast just before the red zone problem
reared its head. It was run hard then pulled into a gas station and just
shut off for 10 minutes, then driven a few blocks and the trouble began.
I will be either throwing it away and running without it. Or simply
replacing it for good measure. I wonder if that part is included in a
PCW rebuild. ; )
================================================
I can remember
becoming over concerned at one time about the operation of my cooling
fan etc. because I though things were just getting too hot .... After
taking everything apart and putting it back together one day under the
right scoop I amazingly started running cooler than ever before. I
really don't think the bike started running cooler by my just looking
at it and handling the wiring ... I think I actually started getting a
more accurate indication of the temp on the gauge because I disturbed
the connector ......... I since cleaned the terminals and have been
running "amazingly" cool ever since.
====================================
If only I could be so lucky!
Exactly what terminals are you talking about?
I poured over the microfiche of the radiator / water pump and still am
not certain.
THANKS for the HELP
Tony Pace
VMOA#247
Williamstown, N.J.
www.tourmaster.cjb.net
campbell
----- Original Message -----
From: "=F4=BF=F4" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Garlic Run Red Zone
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