hey guys...be patient!!!!!!!! i have a "set and forget" unit in
the works, there is only a couple minor details to workout.
I have been shunned by many for this adventure, but its just to
say i did it, final testing and POSITIVE FUNCTIONALITY still in
the works. extensive info below.......
first off, reading the recent replies, someone mentioned WOT
activation, good idea, that brings me up to revision 879.4
ok,, the boost control unit (BCU) works off of frequency, and
starts its thing ~6000rpm and is supposed to be full on at
8500rpm which is where we want it, full open. 8500rpms is equal
to 141 rev per SECOND which is FREQUENCY. so, i set up a freq.
generator set at ~141hz and when that signal is sent to the BCU,
it opens the valves full on. (this is basically the AUTOBOOST
2)......WELL like most of you, i want more.........so, i made a
secondary circuit that reads the frequency from the coil/tach
wire just as the original BCU setup, but circuit #2 has the
advantage of TRUE ADJUSTABILITY. when your PRESET frequency is
achieved, it sends a signal to circuit #1 saying HAMMER
DOWN!!!!! circuit #1 then sends the FAKE FULL BOOST FREQUENCY
to the BCU and voila', FULL BOOST....
DONT SEND CASH YET!!!!!!!! IT STILL AINT DONE............
some design problems:
ok, just for assurance, on the test bench (complete boost system
removed from bike), THIS THING WORKS FLAWLESSLY, but there are
problems when i hooked it to the bike, mainly that this whole
circuit puts a heavy load on the ignition signal to the coil and
when the PRESET RPM is reached, it turns on and basically STEALS
all power from that ignition signal and the cylinder looses power
instantly. this can be fixed easily with some photo-isolation
circuitry, unfortunately, i have put this thing on the shelf for
now because to do any further testing, THE BIKE HAS TO BE
STRIPPED DOWN for access and hookups. i have only had this bike
for a few months and im not pissing away my 1st summer to playing
mad scientist.........BUT TESTING WILL CONTINUE WHEN THE SNOW
STARTS TO FLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the next forseen problem is that i have not designed into this a
shut down delay, meaning that if you dial in at 4500rpm and
hammer thru gears and when you get into 5th or any gear AND DROP
BELOW 4500rpm, this thing will start to shut off giving you a
parachute effect. again this thing is NOT finished, so i will
probably have most bugs worked out by next spring.
just to let all of you know, i have about $100.00 invested just
in parts for the circuit, with more parts/ fixes to be added, it
is in a prototype radioshack box and prototype circuitboard
chunks. if it works as well as we all hope, there is going to be
serious money involved in getting it scaled down to a production
circuitboard and a box as small as possible..and hopefully i will
be able to ship it in kit form, but i have to tell ya
building/testing this isnt exactly for the electronics rookie.
one final bit of info 'PRESET RPM...THE GOODIE' this circuit
lets you pick a frequency by changing some parts, and when the
input signal matches your PRESET, its output turns on what ever
you connect to it...I.E. fake boost signal generator....now the
preset is selected by changing resistance, the easiest "assembly'
would be a potentiometer like volume control to a radio. but that
didnt work because the potientometer was TOO TOO TOO sensitive to
even the slightest adjustment..imagine getting WOT with only a
1/8 inch of twist on the throttle AND TRYING TO MAINTAIN
3800RPMS......REAL HARD. so i opted for a 12 position rotary
switch ($10.00) this gives you positive locked settings and enuff
settings to choose from.. every 500rpm starting from 1000rpm up
to 6000rpm...i didnt go for anything after 6000 because...if i
have to explain that one, your a putz!!!!!
now this is very important: MY INCOMING email is not functioning
so if anyone wants to bitch at me for short novel syndrome, dont
reply to this address,
send any bitches to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
thats dog with a zero
hope this gives some hope to ya,
Rich Betz
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