How did you remove just our message without deleting all the messages? I
tried and ended up deleting the whole column? Frank
----- Original Message -----
From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 6:03 PM
Subject: [VAC]
> If replying back to the List from this Digest, please delete all messages
but
> the one you are replying to, and change the title in the subject line to
the
> correct topic.
> VACList-Digest Sunday, March 11, 2001 Issue 137
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Accumulator Tanks
> 2. Re: [VAC) keys
> 3. Re: [VAC) keys
> 4. Re: Accumulator Tanks(Optima Batteries)
> 5. Re: Accumulator Tanks
> 6. Re: [VAC) keys
> 7. Re: [VAC) keys
> 8. Re: Changes versus Value
> 9. Digital Battery/Solar Meter
> 10. Re: Accumulator Tanks(Optima Batteries)
> 11. Re: Digital Battery/Solar Meter
> 12. FAQ DEEP CYCLE BATTERY
> 13. Re: Accumulator Tanks(Optima Batteries)
> 14. Re: Accumulator Tanks
> 15. Re: [VAC) keys
> 16. Re: Accumulator Tanks
> 17. Re: Accumulator Tanks
> 18. Re: Accumulator Tanks
> 19. Re: Accumulator Tanks(Optima Batteries)
> 20. Searching For A Vintage Trailer
> 21. Re: Accumulator Tanks
> 22. Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> Message Number: 1
> Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 19:05:08 -0500
> From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
> Chris,
> I installed a new ShurFlo pump and accumulator in our trailer during
> our Winter sojurn, replacing the old Jabsco pump. Bottom line: I like it
> a lot and feel that it was well worthwhile. The pump cycles less, even
> though you can draw only about a cup of water before it goes 'on', and
> the water pressure seems much steadier, making it nicer in the shower.
>
> There is usually no cutoff valve on the inlet to the pump from the tank,
> but MAY be a bypass valve after the pump. Its purpose is to allow
> filling of the tank from the city water supply; if you leave it open,
> there will be little or no pressure buildup, especially from the pump,
> as it's just pushing the water back into the tank.
>
> The accumlator and pump came from Camping World and totalled just over
> $100.00, IIRC. Fittings came from the BroadWay Ace Hardware in McAllen,
> TX, all connections were done with 1/2" reinforced tubing. That's the
> stuff that's clear/transparent with some sort of criss-cross
> threads/fibers in it.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> "Christopher H. Dow" wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I'm working on the plumbing and electrical systems in my '64
> > Globetrotter.
> >
> > I noticed when towing the trailer home that the water didn't work. I
> > couldn't find the master cutoff valve from the main tank, either.
> > Today, I discovered that there was no cutoff valve between the main tank
> > and the pump. The pump will make noise, but no water will come out of
> > it. I have also discoverd that there is water going to the pump. Thus,
> > I conclude that the pump is not functional. My personal policy on parts
> > in that price range is that if I didn't put it in, and it fails, then I
> > replace it. If I put it in and it fails, I'll think about rebuilding
> > it. So, I'm buying a new pump. When I looked at pumps in the West
> > Marine catalog, they recommended an accumulator tank to reduce pump
> > cycles. I wonder if any of you have any wisdom to share on this topic.
> > The concept makes so much sense that I woudln't hesitate to do it except
> > that it takes up space. I have to get a charger , solar controller (Sun
> > Saver 6), inverter, automatic transfer switch, two optima batteries, and
> > a toilette to fit in the rear compartment, so space is definitely at a
> > premium.
> >
> > Thanks for any input you can provide,
> > C
> >
> > To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to
> > http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary
original
> > text from your reply.
> >
> >
>
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 2
> Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 19:46:43 -0500
> From: "Chris Elliot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [VAC) keys
>
> > Somehow I`ve managed to lose the keys to 2 of my trailers... Two
seperate
> key chains , dont ask me how ,but it looks like I lost them. I`ve turned
the
> place upside down ,and I`m just about out of my mind ...So maybe they will
> turn up in time- but maybe they wont. If they have gone to never never
> land - what do ya do ? Is there a way to get a number from the tumbler? or
> the serial # ? Locksmith ? factory any help?
> Fortunately the doors are unlocked . Both trailers are 1967 .
> I never lose keys ,I do the same thing ,the same way ,same place ,every
> time . I have heard aluminum oxide will give you alzheimers ,I guess its
> true.
> Chris 67 caravel ,
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 3
> Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 20:30:34 -0500
> From: "charles may" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [VAC) keys
>
> Chris I have a 1970 model, dont know if the keys are the same, my door
uses
> a Cole national, C026, the side doors use a Chicago 1101X if that helps,
the
> blanks are available had copies made while in Florida. I imagine the side
> doors are all same, not sure about the main door.
> Charles May
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Chris Elliot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 7:46 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: [VAC) keys
>
>
> > > Somehow I`ve managed to lose the keys to 2 of my trailers... Two
> seperate
> > key chains , dont ask me how ,but it looks like I lost them. I`ve turned
> the
> > place upside down ,and I`m just about out of my mind ...So maybe they
will
> > turn up in time- but maybe they wont. If they have gone to never never
> > land - what do ya do ? Is there a way to get a number from the tumbler?
or
> > the serial # ? Locksmith ? factory any help?
> > Fortunately the doors are unlocked . Both trailers are 1967 .
> > I never lose keys ,I do the same thing ,the same way ,same place
,every
> > time . I have heard aluminum oxide will give you alzheimers ,I guess its
> > true.
> > Chris 67 caravel ,
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to
> > http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary
> original
> > text from your reply.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Shop online without a credit card
> http://www.rocketcash.com
> RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 4
> Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 19:20:27 -0700
> From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks(Optima Batteries)
>
> "Christopher H. Dow" wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I'm working on the plumbing and electrical systems in my '64
> > Globetrotter.
> >
> > I noticed when towing the trailer home that the water didn't work. I
> > couldn't find the master cutoff valve from the main tank, either.
> > Today, I discovered that there was no cutoff valve between the main tank
> > and the pump. The pump will make noise, but no water will come out of
> > it. I have also discoverd that there is water going to the pump. Thus,
> > I conclude that the pump is not functional. My personal policy on parts
> > in that price range is that if I didn't put it in, and it fails, then I
> > replace it. If I put it in and it fails, I'll think about rebuilding
> > it. So, I'm buying a new pump. When I looked at pumps in the West
> > Marine catalog, they recommended an accumulator tank to reduce pump
> > cycles. I wonder if any of you have any wisdom to share on this topic.
> > The concept makes so much sense that I woudln't hesitate to do it except
> > that it takes up space. I have to get a charger , solar controller (Sun
> > Saver 6), inverter, automatic transfer switch, two optima batteries, and
> > a toilette to fit in the rear compartment, so space is definitely at a
> > premium.
> >
> > Thanks for any input you can provide
>
> Our customer's experience with Optima batteries has not been all that
good.
> While their construction makes installing them very flexible, their
capacity is
> quite limiting. When you go shopping be sure to compare Reserve Capacity
Minutes
> (RCM) for different deep cycle batteries. You will find the Optima is at
the low
> end of the scale. RCM is kind of the EPA mileage for deep cycle batteries.
It
> defines a rate of discharge for a given length of time.(25A per minute).
While
> one would rarely use a battery at that rate it gives a basis for
comparison. An
> Interstate Group 27 battery (what Airstream currently uses) has an RCM of
160
> minutes.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 5
> Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 18:48:00 -0800
> From: "Christopher H. Dow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
> Jim Dunmyer wrote:
> >
> > Chris,
> > I installed a new ShurFlo pump and accumulator in our trailer during
> > our Winter sojurn, replacing the old Jabsco pump. Bottom line: I like it
> > a lot and feel that it was well worthwhile. The pump cycles less, even
> > though you can draw only about a cup of water before it goes 'on', and
> > the water pressure seems much steadier, making it nicer in the shower.
>
> That's pretty much what I thought. I've found that most pressurized
> systems (I'm most familiar with pneumatic ones) work better when there
> is a reserve capacity attached to the pump.
>
> > There is usually no cutoff valve on the inlet to the pump from the tank,
> > but MAY be a bypass valve after the pump. Its purpose is to allow
> > filling of the tank from the city water supply; if you leave it open,
> > there will be little or no pressure buildup, especially from the pump,
> > as it's just pushing the water back into the tank.
>
> I mentioned the cutoff because the plumbing diagram in the owner's
> manual indicates that there should be one. It was only relevant because
> I thought it might be why the water wasn't working. It turns out that
> was because the pump was buggered. The new shurflo works fine. Finally
> we have water!
>
> > The accumlator and pump came from Camping World and totalled just over
> > $100.00, IIRC. Fittings came from the BroadWay Ace Hardware in McAllen,
> > TX, all connections were done with 1/2" reinforced tubing. That's the
> > stuff that's clear/transparent with some sort of criss-cross
> > threads/fibers in it.
>
> How many GPM does it do? Mine does 5, and was a little more than that
> (without the accumulator) from West Marine. Maybe WM is pricey. It is
> about a mile from my home, though.
>
> C
>
> > "Christopher H. Dow" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I'm working on the plumbing and electrical systems in my '64
> > > Globetrotter.
> > >
> > > I noticed when towing the trailer home that the water didn't work. I
> > > couldn't find the master cutoff valve from the main tank, either.
> > > Today, I discovered that there was no cutoff valve between the main
tank
> > > and the pump. The pump will make noise, but no water will come out of
> > > it. I have also discoverd that there is water going to the pump.
Thus,
> > > I conclude that the pump is not functional. My personal policy on
parts
> > > in that price range is that if I didn't put it in, and it fails, then
I
> > > replace it. If I put it in and it fails, I'll think about rebuilding
> > > it. So, I'm buying a new pump. When I looked at pumps in the West
> > > Marine catalog, they recommended an accumulator tank to reduce pump
> > > cycles. I wonder if any of you have any wisdom to share on this
topic.
> > > The concept makes so much sense that I woudln't hesitate to do it
except
> > > that it takes up space. I have to get a charger , solar controller
(Sun
> > > Saver 6), inverter, automatic transfer switch, two optima batteries,
and
> > > a toilette to fit in the rear compartment, so space is definitely at a
> > > premium.
> > >
> > > Thanks for any input you can provide,
> > > C
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 6
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 08:40:22 -0500
> From: James Hall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [VAC) keys
>
> on 3/10/01 7:46 PM, Chris Elliot at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> >> Somehow I`ve managed to lose the keys to 2 of my trailers... Two
seperate
> > key chains , dont ask me how ,but it looks like I lost them.
> > Chris 67 caravel
> Chris, I have a '68 Caravel, and the main door uses a Curtis ME-1 blank,
and
> the compartment doors use a Curtis CG-16 blank. I live in central Ohio and
> we are fortunate enough to have a "real" locksmith whou can rekey locks
for
> about $15.00 each if you bring them in, usually in the same day. If your
> doors are unlocked, you can probably remove the lockset and take it in. If
> not our locksmith can come out and do it on site but it is somthing like
> $75.00 instead. In any case don't lose heart, this same locksmith replaced
> the cylinder in my fathers original 1893 locset on his old Victorian
house,
> not the same key blank , but it works. If you need pointers on getting the
> lockset out of you entry door write me off list. (hope this helps.)
>
> James Hall ' 68 Caravel
> > To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to
> > http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary
original
> > text from your reply.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 7
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 09:44:07 -0500
> From: "Chris Elliot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [VAC) keys
>
> I found them !!! Thanks for helping me out with the blank #`s . NOW
I`m
> going to take them and get copies cut.I learned my lesson ,There is
nothing
> as maddening as losing keys. The girlfriend was`nt too happy when I
> suggested that things might be easier to find or harder to lose if every
> surface was`nt covered in knick - knacks and clutter . The trouble with
> houses is there are too many places to put too many things .
> Along this topic ,recently when recycling my paper ,I chanced to find
a
> locksmithing trade publication. In it was all sorts of ads for locksets
> ,deadbolts,etc. and also info on how to break in to cars and bank safes.
> Deadbolts were a topic not too long ago , any body interested it was
called
> National Locksmith,and they are on web . Some day I want a radio
controlled
> lock like they use on kustom cars now , no knob or anything ,just springs
> open.
> Thanks for the help,
> Chris 67 caravel and others
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > on 3/10/01 7:46 PM, Chris Elliot at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > >> Somehow I`ve managed to lose the keys to 2 of my trailers...
> . If you need pointers on getting the
> > lockset out of you entry door write me off list. (hope this helps.)
> >
> > James Hall ' 68 Caravel
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 8
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 08:41:13 -0800
> From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Changes versus Value
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Not sure where the "restored equals unusable museum piece" came from.
>
> Our '65 Caravel is 100% "restored" & 95% original, every inch from front
> to back & top to bottom - and 100% usable. We use it more than most
> Airstreams out there and definitely more than the armchair Airstream
owners.
>
> We favor boonie camping in the Sierra Nevada's and along the coast, and
> have been hauling the Caravel down logging roads & through the dirt. We
> just vacuum it out and wash it after each trip. That's the beauty of an
> Airstream and the materials Wally & Company first chose.
>
> What I'm saying is that before you paint the Zolatone over in "Peach",
> before you replace the Dixie stove because it's easier than fixing it,
> before you rip out the furnace and replace it with a catalytic heater,
> or throw away all the light fixtures because you found some "great never
> needs replacing light" at Walmart, think about:
>
> 1- will we regret this later?
> 2- will future owners curse us or give an approving nod?
> 3- are we reducing what makes an Airstream an Airstream?
> 4- Have we really tried to repair this, or are we taking the easy way out?
>
> Now don't get me wrong, this does not apply to safety or operational
> items. If the univolt was to fail, a properly installed Convertor is
> going in. PEX for Copper pipe? Sure thing!
>
> Frank & Faith, changing the upholstery , curtains and softgoods are what
> every person does with their Airstream - it's how we make it "ours".
> There's not a thing wrong with it. What would be cool is to take some
> samples of the original material, fold it up, place it in a package and
> leave it in the bottom of a drawer. Some future owner will find great
> joy one day when they come across it.
>
> Back to work now, the sun's out and I have 5# of dry ice in the garage.
> I'm dent removing on the Caravel today. Will take pictures and update
> the website if this really works.
>
> RJ & Krista
>
>
> > Have we spoiled something dear and precious? We were thinking that
> > if we couldn't use it that we might sell it to someone who would
> > appreciate it and treat it
> > with the respect that we are learning about with Airstream owners.
> > We finally found a unit that it close enough to meet with but
> > because of my wife's health, have not even been able to meet anyone.
> > Any input would be appreciated. Frank Navarro
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 9
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:57:26 -0500
> From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Digital Battery/Solar Meter
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C0AA22.70EA7F00
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> A while back somebody mentioned a digital meter that showed battery =
> voltage to two decimal places mounted in the trailer that would display =
> battery voltage (output), solar panel voltage output, amp hours input =
> from the solar panels and amp hours output from the battery. At least =
> that's what I thought I read. I'd like to know where to get one of these =
> meters, along with directions for installing it. Can anybody help or did =
> I dream this up?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Greene
> '68 Tradewind #1148
> Atlanta
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C0AA22.70EA7F00
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A while back somebody mentioned a =
> digital meter=20
> that showed battery voltage to two decimal places mounted in the trailer =
> that=20
> would display battery voltage (output), solar panel voltage output, amp =
> hours=20
> input from the solar panels and amp hours output from the battery. At =
> least=20
> that's what I thought I read. I'd like to know where to get one of these =
> meters,=20
> along with directions for installing it. Can anybody help or did I dream =
> this=20
> up?</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>'68 Tradewind #1148</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Atlanta</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C0AA22.70EA7F00--
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 10
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 10:48:27 -0800
> From: "Christopher H. Dow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks(Optima Batteries)
>
> Charlie/Betty Burke wrote:
> 8<
> > Our customer's experience with Optima batteries has not been all that
good.
> > While their construction makes installing them very flexible, their
capacity is
> > quite limiting. When you go shopping be sure to compare Reserve Capacity
Minutes
> > (RCM) for different deep cycle batteries. You will find the Optima is at
the low
> > end of the scale. RCM is kind of the EPA mileage for deep cycle
batteries. It
> > defines a rate of discharge for a given length of time.(25A per minute).
While
> > one would rarely use a battery at that rate it gives a basis for
comparison. An
> > Interstate Group 27 battery (what Airstream currently uses) has an RCM
of 160
> > minutes.
> >
> > Charlie
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> I'd be interested in specific details of problems your customers have
> encountered. Optima batteries are very popular in off-roading circles,
> because the deep-cycle battery can be used for starting, and the extra
> demands of winching and auxilliary lights (which are critical for night
> driving in forrests and the desert) are often best handled by a
> deep-cycle. Further, I have friends who've run Optimas for years as
> starting and winching batteries and have participated in multiple
> competitions where the batteries were worked very hard winching, etc.
> Also, are your customers using one or two Optimas? Placing two in
> paralell doubles the RCM.
>
> Admittedly Optima batteries have an RCM of 120, which is, indeed, less
> than the Interstate Group 27 battery's 160. However, Group 27 batteries
> are 12 1/16" x 6 13/16" x 8 7/8" = ~718ci (from
> http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html -- I was unable to find
> Interstate's claims for dimensions on their web site). The Optima
> yellow tops are 10" x 6 3/4" x 6 3/4" = ~ 455ci That yeilds ~ 0.223
> RCM/ci for the Interstate, and ~0.264 RCM/ci for the Optima. Thus, the
> Optima has an 18% better RCM/ci rating. But, it doesn't stop there.
> There is the matter of what can actually be made to fit. Since fitting
> two group 27 batteries in the rear of my trailer is nearly impossible,
> if I use one, my RCM capacity will be limited to 160. Since I can fit
> two optimas easily, my RCM will be 240. That difference is 33.3%.
>
> That's why I chose Optima over other battery types.
>
> C
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 11
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 12:31:07 -0700
> From: Don Horn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Digital Battery/Solar Meter
>
> They're called "e-meters" and are sold under various brand names, but all
> are made by Cruising Equipment Company. Go to their web site and click
on
> "products" & then on "e-meter":
>
> http://www.cruisingequip.com/
>
> There was a guy selling them periodically on ebay a while back, and they
> were going for $150-165, brand new. I bought one, and it works fine.
> Supposedly this includes mfr's warranty, since it was new, but I'm not
sure
> whether the seller was an authorized distributor. He was located in the
> same city as Cruising Equipment (Kent, WA), so they may have been
unloading
> excess stock or older models. It did come complete with all parts and
> instructions in original packaging.
>
> I'd suggest you shop around to see if you can find one at a discount,
rather
> than buying direct from the manufacturer at list price. They're sold
> through solar products distributors, marine products shops, and probably
> some RV accessory retailers. Try a search for "e-meter" or "Link-10" at
> google.com and see what comes up.
>
> Don
>
>
> > From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:57:26 -0500
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [VAC] Digital Battery/Solar Meter
> >
> > A while back somebody mentioned a digital meter that showed battery
voltage to
> > two decimal places mounted in the trailer that would display battery
voltage
> > (output), solar panel voltage output, amp hours input from the solar
panels
> > and amp hours output from the battery. At least that's what I thought I
read.
> > I'd like to know where to get one of these meters, along with directions
for
> > installing it. Can anybody help or did I dream this up?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim Greene
> > '68 Tradewind #1148
> > Atlanta
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 12
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:41:41 EST
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: FAQ DEEP CYCLE BATTERY
>
> Check out this site http://nyquist.ee.ualberta.ca/~schmaus/dcbat.html
> for
>
> 1. WHAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE?
> 2. WHY BOTHER?
> 3. HOW DO I TEST A DEEP CYCLE BATTERY?
> 4. WHAT DO I LOOK FOR IN BUYING A BATTERY?
> 5. HOW DO I INSTALL A BATTERY?
> 6. HOW DO I CHARGE (OR EQUALIZE) A BATTERY?
> 7. HOW DO I INCREASE THE LIFE OF A BATTERY?
> 8. WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON CAUSES OF BATTERY FAILURES?
> 9. HOW CAN I STORE BATTERIES?
> 10. WHAT ARE THE COMMON MYTHS ABOUT BATTERIES?
> 11. HOW LONG WILL A DEEP CYCLE BATTERY LAST ON A SINGLE CHARGE?
> 12. WHERE CAN I FIND MORE INFO ON BATTERIES?
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 13
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 13:33:30 -0700
> From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks(Optima Batteries)
>
> "Christopher H. Dow" wrote:
>
> > <<snip>>
> >
> > Hi Charlie,
> >
> > I'd be interested in specific details of problems your customers have
> > encountered. Optima batteries are very popular in off-roading circles,
> > because the deep-cycle battery can be used for starting, and the extra
> > demands of winching and auxilliary lights (which are critical for night
> > driving in forrests and the desert) are often best handled by a
> > deep-cycle. Further, I have friends who've run Optimas for years as
> > starting and winching batteries and have participated in multiple
> > competitions where the batteries were worked very hard winching, etc.
> > Also, are your customers using one or two Optimas? Placing two in
> > paralell doubles the RCM.
> >
> > Admittedly Optima batteries have an RCM of 120, which is, indeed, less
> > than the Interstate Group 27 battery's 160. However, Group 27 batteries
> > are 12 1/16" x 6 13/16" x 8 7/8" = ~718ci (from
> > http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html -- I was unable to find
> > Interstate's claims for dimensions on their web site). The Optima
> > yellow tops are 10" x 6 3/4" x 6 3/4" = ~ 455ci That yeilds ~ 0.223
> > RCM/ci for the Interstate, and ~0.264 RCM/ci for the Optima. Thus, the
> > Optima has an 18% better RCM/ci rating. But, it doesn't stop there.
> > There is the matter of what can actually be made to fit. Since fitting
> > two group 27 batteries in the rear of my trailer is nearly impossible,
> > if I use one, my RCM capacity will be limited to 160. Since I can fit
> > two optimas easily, my RCM will be 240. That difference is 33.3%.
> >
> > That's why I chose Optima over other battery types.
> >
> > C
>
> So far they have been trying to use them in place of Group 27's in the
provided
> storage space. That doesn't have any squeeze room. Only one battery will
fit in each
> compartment. In their cases it all boils down to RCM, and as you point out
that's 1/4
> less with the Optima. Their applications are straight dry camping, not
winching and
> the like. That aside you gave a good review of the pluses and minuses,
thanks
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 14
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:39:56 -0500
> From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
> Harvey,
> The accumulator that I used has a bladder in it, so should never need
> air.
>
> My reason for changing the pump and adding the accumulator was that the
> Jabsco diaphragm pump was laboring when it approached shutoff, sometimes
> even making the switch click on and off with the pulsations. In
> retrospect, the pump was probably acting normally, but the water heater
> had become waterlogged after a few weeks' use. This is normal, of
> course, but before all the air disappeared, it acted as an
> accumlator/air cushion so that the pump would come up to pressure and
> STOP. All that was probably needed was the accumlator, not a new pump.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> Harvey Barlow wrote:
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > My '93 has an accumulator added under the sink but I have never
remembered
> > to add pressurized air. It is probably a nice feature but tens of
thousands
> > of Airstreams have been built and used without one. Probably nice to
have
> > but certainly not essential equipment.
> >
> > Harvey
> >
> -
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 15
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:41:28 -0500
> From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [VAC) keys
>
> Chris,
> The compartment keys are probably the same as most other A/Ss, so you
> can just borrow one and have a copy made. Dunno about the door key, but
> any locksmith can fix you up; it'd no doubt be cheaper if you took the
> trailer to him rather than have a house call.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> Chris Elliot wrote:
> >
> > > Somehow I`ve managed to lose the keys to 2 of my trailers... Two
seperate
> > key chains , dont ask me how ,but it looks like I lost them. I`ve turned
the
> > place upside down ,and I`m just about out of my mind ...So maybe they
will
> > turn up in time- but maybe they wont. If they have gone to never never
> > land - what do ya do ? Is there a way to get a number from the tumbler?
or
> > the serial # ? Locksmith ? factory any help?
> > Fortunately the doors are unlocked . Both trailers are 1967 .
> > I never lose keys ,I do the same thing ,the same way ,same place
,every
> > time . I have heard aluminum oxide will give you alzheimers ,I guess its
> > true.
> > Chris 67 caravel ,
> > >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to
> > http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary
original
> > text from your reply.
> >
> >
>
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 16
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:44:22 -0500
> From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
> Chris,
> I think my ShurFlo pump is rated at 3 GPM, it's the next-to-cheapest
> one that C.W. carries.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> "Christopher H. Dow" wrote:
> >
> > J-
> > > The accumlator and pump came from Camping World and totalled just over
> > > $100.00, IIRC. Fittings came from the BroadWay Ace Hardware in
McAllen,
> > > TX, all connections were done with 1/2" reinforced tubing. That's the
> > > stuff that's clear/transparent with some sort of criss-cross
> > > threads/fibers in it.
> >
> > How many GPM does it do? Mine does 5, and was a little more than that
> > (without the accumulator) from West Marine. Maybe WM is pricey. It is
> > about a mile from my home, though.
> >
> >-
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 17
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:02:24 -0600
> From: "Harvey Barlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
> Jim,
>
> Thanks for the info. I have owned the trailer since Oct. 94 and
discovered
> the accumulator (with bladder) some time later. I always thought it
wasn't
> charged with air because the pump always cycled. A couple of weeks ago,
> while inflating the tires before a trip I remembered the accumulator and
> added air. The pump cycled less but it seemed to overload the pump. As a
> matter of fact, the pressure may have damaged the pump because it would
shut
> off after running a while as if suffering from a thermal overload. So I
am
> not sure what advantage my accumulator is providing. Any ideas?
>
> Harvey
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> > The accumulator that I used has a bladder in it, so should never need
> > air.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 18
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 16:32:39 EST
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
> In a message dated 3/11/2001 3:57:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > So I am
> > not sure what advantage my accumulator is providing. Any ideas?
>
> Hi Harvey!
> >From what I am reading with your posts, your accumulator is not working
> properly, or you enjected too much air. For those who would like a
> definition go to: http://www.tobul.com/bkgd/whats.html
>
> Scott
>
> http://members.aol.com/adohen/advice/index.htm
> http://members.aol.com/adohen1/page/Adohensupply.htm
> Fantastic Vents, 6 KYB's, 317 and 315 Thomas Air Compressors, Emergency
Brake
> Pulleys
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> http://members.aol.com/whatslh/bizcard/index.htm
> http://members.aol.com/adohen2/page/index.htm
> http://members.aol.com/adohen1/page/index.htm
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> http://members.tripod.com/FreddysWebDesigns/
> http://members.tripod.com/D2CAT
> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=202164
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 19
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 13:48:01 -0800
> From: "Christopher H. Dow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks(Optima Batteries)
>
> Charlie/Betty Burke wrote:
> 8<
> > So far they have been trying to use them in place of Group 27's in the
provided
> > storage space. That doesn't have any squeeze room. Only one battery will
fit in each
> > compartment. In their cases it all boils down to RCM, and as you point
out that's 1/4
> > less with the Optima. Their applications are straight dry camping, not
winching and
> > the like. That aside you gave a good review of the pluses and minuses,
thanks
> 8<
>
> I don't plan to do much winching with my trailer either :-). I just
> observed over the years that the Optimas can stand up to heavy use over
> time, and it's one of the few deep-cycle batteries that can regularly be
> used as a starting battery (winching is similar to running a starter for
> a long time). I agree that the Optima is not a good replacement for the
> Interstate Group 27, but if there is room for two, you can get more RCM
> that way. I will have to do a little bit of adaptation to get two
> optimas on the battery mount, but I've seen some good setups and should
> be able to emulate them.
>
> C
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 20
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 17:14:05 -0600
> From: "Harvey Barlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Searching For A Vintage Trailer
>
> I got a phone call today from a woman who lives in Lubbock inquiring if my
> vintage trailer was for sale. She had driven by my shop recently and saw
my
> '66 Safari sitting outside. She wants to purchase a '60s A/S in ready to
> tow condition. Her preference is for a Bambi, Caravel, Globe Trotter, one
> of the smaller units. She sounds like a serious buyer who has been
looking
> for a good one for several months.
>
> I looked briefly at the various classified ad websites that I am familiar
> with and pointed her in that direction.
>
> Does anyone have a '60s trailer in good condition for sale or know of one
> for sale? If so, please e-mail me off-list and I'll pass on the
information
> to the buyer.
>
> Harvey Barlow
> WBCCI #1171, WDCU, VAC
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 21
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 17:17:38 -0600
> From: "Harvey Barlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
> Scott,
>
> Thanks for the advice. I guess the first step should be to check the
> accumulator air pressure with a tire pressure gauge at the air fitting. I
> looked at a new accumulator in a box on the shelf at Camping World a
couple
> weeks ago and according to the printed info on the box, the accumulator
> should operate at 20 psi. Does that sound reasonable?
>
> My accumulator may be inoperative or my water pump may be ailing.
>
> Harvey
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> > >From what I am reading with your posts, your accumulator is not working
> > properly, or you enjected too much air. For those who would like a
> > definition go to: http://www.tobul.com/bkgd/whats.html
> >
> > Scott
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 22
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 18:52:37 -0500
> From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Accumulator Tanks
>
> Harvey,
> I think the manual for my accumulator said to pressurize it to the
> cut-IN pressure of the pump when there's no pressure on the water
> system.
>
> You shouldn't hurt the pump by over-pressurizing the accumulator, it
> (the accumulator) just won't do its job as well. You probably need to
> connect a pressure guage to see what's going on; the pump should start
> when the pressure drops to about 20-25 PSI and cut off at about 45 PSI.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> Harvey Barlow wrote:
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > Thanks for the info. I have owned the trailer since Oct. 94 and
discovered
> > the accumulator (with bladder) some time later. I always thought it
wasn't
> > charged with air because the pump always cycled. A couple of weeks ago,
> > while inflating the tires before a trip I remembered the accumulator and
> > added air. The pump cycled less but it seemed to overload the pump. As
a
> > matter of fact, the pressure may have damaged the pump because it would
shut
> > off after running a while as if suffering from a thermal overload. So I
am
> > not sure what advantage my accumulator is providing. Any ideas?
> >
> > Harvey
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> > > The accumulator that I used has a bladder in it, so should never need
> > > air.
> >
> > To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to
> > http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary
original
> > text from your reply.
> >
> >
>
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> End of VACList-Digest #137
> ************************************
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or edit your digest or message options, please go to
> http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>
>
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