The faulty switch in my trailer was the one on the box in back that
switches the pump and fan from "City" power to battery power.
I would test the battery power for 12VDC when you're trying to run off
the batter. My guess is that it's getting 19VAC when the trailer is
hooked up to shore power.
C
Steve Cook wrote:
>
> Chris-
>
> Was your wiring problem in the switch? Should I take it off the wall?
>
> Stevec'69 Caravel
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christopher H. Dow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 2:55 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Related water pump question
>
> > Steve Cook wrote:
> > >
> > > -Can anyone suggest why my water pump motor will operate while the 110v
> > > connection is hooked-up....but will not operate with the 12v alone.
> This is
> > > all new to me and I would assume that 12v operation for boondocking,
> > > etc. --is equal or more important than the 110v.
> > >
> > > I have one wall switch in front of the kitchen sink; there are some
> loose
> > > capped wires eminating from the lower wall under the range area-but this
> > > dosen't seem related. The pump shows 1 set of wires to the electrical
> side
> > > of the pump.
> >
> > Mine wasn't working because the pump/fan switch did not conduct in the
> > "battery" position. I had the same problem with the master light
> > switch, as well. I went through them with a DMM and both were fried for
> > DC. Perhaps a new double-pole, single throw switch is in order. I
> > decided to replace all power components instead :-).
> >
> > C
> >
> >
> >
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> >
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> original
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> >
> >
> >
>
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