Jerry Harris wrote:
> Thanks Dr.Gerald, RJ, and Harvey. The patch is going to be no problem. I
> can find the material and any fix will be pretty easy.
>
> Now ... as to the hot water heater. I found that Poly in Colorado took her
> hotwater heater out by herself. I now feel I CANNOT let down the men in the
> world .... I must go into battle and fight this mighty foe. Pray to the
> Airstream gods for me. I am having my last meal (lunch) and then onward to
> combat.
>
> Mr. Hansen, I wish you lived closer. You sound like Airstream repair
> central. But you gave me hope, and Lord I need that right now. Charlie,
> you told me this is going to be ugly ... considering some of the girls I
> dated in my younger years, I can handle ugly. :) The connections are flare
> and I can remove those easily, but they are solid copper and look like they
> will NOT move. The gas connection should be rather easy.
>
> All the screws are out. That was easy. The unit is glued in with about a
> ton and a half of what looks like silicone. I will try to seperate that
> with a knife as instructed and will give a progress report later .... if I
> survive the battle.
>
> Thanks for the help so far. If I need a new hot water heater ... any
> ideas???
The direct replacement will be an Atwood either 6 or 10 gallon LP pilot model.
If you want to upgrade to a Direct Spark Ignition model you will need to bring
12V to the heater and find a place for the inside switch. Another option would
be to upgrade to a LP/110V electric will require you to run 110V from a breaker
and mount a switch.
If the old heater is a 10 gallon model you may want to try to modify the new one
so you can reuse that snazzy stainless steel cover with two tabs which is NLA.
Otherwise a flat aluminum paint will make it look OK.
Charlie
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