Good point about tapping aluminum. There are a number of modern high tech
(politically and EPA correct) cutting fluids . However, the old standby
which works very well is plain old kerosene (diesel fuel would work too).
Dr. J's suggestion of replacing the 8-32 with a 10-32 is a viable option.
Be sure to use a sharp tap and cutting fluid to get a clean sharp thread to
avoid "tearing" the new threads. No point in cutting "partially stripped
threads".
Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 8:50 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Stripped threads
> McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) has Helicoil down to 2-56. The 8-32 kit
> is $42.88. A 10-32 tap can be had for about $3, probably more at the
> hardware store. When tapping in aluminum it is very important to back
> the tap up and break off the chip every half turn or no longer than a
> turn of the tap else it will pack the tap tight and practically weld it
> to the aluminum. More taps are broken in aluminum than in steel.
>
> If you use Loctite be sure and use a weak grade so you can take the
> handle off some time for lock repairs. Like grade 222.
>
> To make the handle more secure, install with the set screw and let the
> setscrew mark the shaft. Then take the knob off an drill a shallow
> dimple for the end of the set screw to rest in. The connection will be
> much stronger than just friction from the set screw.
>
> Be sure to carry an allen wrench to fit the new set screw.
>
> There is a self locking set screw available with a nylon patch that
> holds it in place. I don't where to get them without buying in quantity.
> McMaster-Carr has them in boxes of 100 for about $20.
>
> Gerald J.
>
>
>
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