Dan, My previous experiance with old houses has taught me that the cause
of the leak may be far away from the evidence. On an A/S there is the
outer and the inner skin and internal structual members to confuse
things. The worst leak I have, on the floor in the rear, is from water
running from who knows where in the ushaped channel that connects the
top to the floor. One of the bolts is cocked and has rusted, so all the
water in the U channel runs out there onto the plywood. Even
condensation ! I don't know what your window seals and latches look
like, but you just have to caulk everything to be sure.
Daisy
Dan Weeks wrote:
>
> In doing major caulking to my 75 Argosy 26, I've found and fixed several
> leaks, but need help with one. I'll list those I fixed first, in case they
> may be useful to others, and save the question for last:
> � several rivets pulled though their holes on the roof. dabed with Vulkem
> 116
> � caulk failed in seams. Dug old out with tiny slotted screwdriver.
> Recaulked with vulkem 116 using a syringe sold to inject marinade into meat.
> Just used the syringe, not the needle that came with it. Smaller hold made
> much neater bead than caulk tube nozzle. Also, very efficient with use of
> caulk, and syringe easy to maneuver and use while lying on roof.
> � Factory missed a few rivet holes. Dabbed with caulk.
> � Seal for lense of floodlight on side forward of door shrunk and failed.
> Water leaked into reflector, ran down bulb socket and wires to floor.
> Lacking another gasket, and being impatient, I rebedded the lense in a tiny
> bead of vulkem. Leak solved. If I ever need a new bulb, I may need a new
> lense, too, though!
> � Leaks around front windows. resealed all forward glass inside and out with
> vulkem
>
> Now, my problem. a sizeable leak remained, showing itself as water dripping
> from the inlet to the water tank. *(I've temporarily removed the tank).
> Removed the front center interior panel, and found evidence that dirty water
> had been leaking in at the portside window latch, running down the
> insulation and dripping from the water tank inlet onto the floor. A smaller
> leak at starboard side latch. THis has to have been happening for years, as
> the floor is soft there (repaired today with drilling and epoxy, as
> recommended earlier. Seems to have worked quite well.) Noticed there are no
> seals around these latches where they go through the window frames. Can see
> that water has pooled on the frame and run in through the latch. Now--all my
> window seals appear to be original and all are checked and cracked, though
> the windows dog down tightly. Is the leak caused by these faulty seals? If
> so, where can I get new gasket material? And it still seems as though the
> latch needs a seal of some sort==what happens if you leave a window open in
> the rain? Is this a common problem? How solved?
>
> Also--floor very soft outboard of the water pump, under the forward portside
> window above the dining table. Water pump or hose leaks common, or is this
> the result of another window leak?
>
> Thanks, all for the information that has allowed me to get this far with the
> sealing job.
>
> Dan Weeks
> Des Moines
> 75 Argosy 26
>
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 23:29:06 EDT
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [VAC] Re: Vintage haulers
> >
> > I have the opportunity to get a 1966 and / or 1968 T-Bird (just one) to use
> > as a show hauler for my 68 Safari. Any problem or recommendations. I would
> > use the T-Bird for short hauls to show and trips. I have my B190 (diesel) for
> > long haul and mountain travel.
> >
> > Vince
> > Southern Oregon
> >
> >
>
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>
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