My suggestion would be to drill/ream the inside portion as close to the
threads as you can without actually getting into the threads themselves...
use a small punch and collapse the inner portion into itself causing the
threads to separate... once the threads separate the rest is pretty easy
and you might have to clean up the thread with the proper tap...You might
try an ease-out but if it didn't give up before the part actually broke, I
think the ease-out might just ream out the inside...I have had some success
collapsing the inner portion with a small punch and if you grind the tip of
the punch to a slight bevel, you can probably get the job done fairly
easily... easy with the hammer...
good luck....
Jim
At 06:20 PM 06/05/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>I've run into a little snag with the K-H brake controller installation;
>apparently, it's not a good idea to mix metals, e.g. brass fitting into a
>steel or aluminum fitting - as was the case in today's episode of This Old
>Brake Controller... i noticed in the installation guide that Harvey Barlow
>so graciously shared with some of us that it specifically warns against
>this. Apparently the previous installer did not take this to heart, and i've
>now got the threaded portion of the brass fitting ground down flush to the
>steel nut going into the brake controller... SO... I soaked it in Liquid
>Wrench, I applied heat from a pencil-torch, and managed to twist the bugger
>off close to the nut... ground it down flat... what's next? an 'EZ-Out'?
>Drill it out and re-thread the fitting? HELP, please.
>
>Oh, and while bleeding the brake lines after installing the tee, the abs
>light came on, and stayed on when we brought the brake pressure back up...
>is it possible that the brake pressure-sensor is too sensitive to use with
>this controller? ('99 Durango).
>
>Tuna (who's about ready to go ahead and shove the Jordan Research Ultima
>2020 Controller into the Durango, and get another one for the Prowler... )
>
>Tuna
>
>
>
>
>
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>
Jim Clark
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