Dave,
Pulling the seal will not help as the bearing is set further back in the hub
than the seal although it will have to be removed to get the old bearing
out. The seal should have been pushed out by the inner bearing anyway. If
you look at the outer bearing from the outer side of the hub, you should see
two slots in the shoulder of the hub where the bearing outer race sits.
This is where you want to place your punch to drive the outer bearing from
the hub. Using a substantial punch and a heavy hammer should persuade the
bearing race to budge. Once it starts to move, be sure to apply blows to
the opposite side of the bearing to keep it square as possible while driving
it out. If you are "driving" not pressing the new race into place, be sure
to lightly tap it into place at first to get it started - again as square as
possible in the hub. If you get it cocked in the hub it will get stuck and
will not move. As you drive it home, apply even blows around the bearing
race and work it slowly into place. It is important to use a brass drift as
most likely you will occasionally slip off the top surface and hit the race
surface. Anything else will ruin a new bearing. Once the bearing appears
to be set in place, use a feeler gauge to ensure it is flat against the
bottom of the hub seating surface. I like to use a .001 to .002 feeler
gauge to be sure.
Good Luck - it will move!
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Charlie/Betty Burke
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 7:16 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: wheel bearings
Dave Baccarini wrote:
> jim, I just got everything apart to do wheel maintenance. have you had any
> problems getting the inner bearings out. the shop manual says to turn hub
> face up and bank out the bearing with a punch. I tried this and it didn't
> budge. I was wondering if I pull the seal out will it come out easier.
where
> can I get all those parts anyway. also did you ever change the shocks? I'm
> having trouble finding a matching shock. I have a 1975 31' sovereign.
thank
> for any help you can give me.
>
> dave
> south carolina
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 12:53 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] wheel bearings
>
> I did my annual wheel bearing repack and brake adjustment a couple of
> weeks ago. It was interesting to find one of the outer bearings with
> 'spalled' rollers; they looked and felt very rough, probably due to
> inadaquet hardening during manufacture. Hard telling how long that
> bearing might have gone before failing completely.
>
> Fortunately, I had a spare bearing on hand, so the job wasn't held up
> while I ran to NAPA for another.
>
> It had been about 10,000 miles since the last repack.
>
> Moral of the story? Don't neglect those wheel bearings!!
>
> <<Jim>>
>
Here's a mechanics trick for removing the inner bearing without tearing up
the
seal or bearing.
Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, castle nut, D washer and outer bearing.
Replace
the washer and castle nut several turns. Grasp the outsides of the hub/drum
assembly and move it toward you. When you feel it stop against the inner
bearing, move away a short distance and pull back sharply toward you. This
uses
the D washer to press out the seal and bearing. Both should come out
uninjured.
It is a particularly good idea to use this method on the older axles with
felt
grease seals. These old seals are either not easily found or are
prohibitively
expensive.
Charlie
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