VACList Digest Saturday, December 21 2002 Volume 03 : Number 049
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html Topics in Today's Digest: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Re: [VACList] Generator Re: [VACList] Generator Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement [VACList] Re: water heater voltage Re: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Re: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage RE: [VACList] Generator Re: [VACList] Courtesy Parking: Pending Re: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage [VACList] Fw: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission Fw: [VACList] Tekonsha Voyager [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Re: [VACList] Fw: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement [VACList] 1974 "Argosy Motorhome" [VACList] Need for automatic transmission oil cooler over OEM Re: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander Re: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander Re: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander Re: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander Re: [VACList] Fw: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 09:51:01 -0500 From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Rik, It'll take some research, but you should be able to find a competent rebuilder in Atlanta. You might look for someone who does racing engines. Although they probably don't do engines like yours, I've dealt with an outfit called Southern Truck Parts, who is very near Atlanta. I trust them and would trust their recommendations for a rebuilder. Sorry I don't have their phone number handy, but they should be in the book. <<Jim>> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> - -----Original Message----- From: Rik & Susan Beeson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Friday, December 20, 2002 9:06 AM Subject: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement >Hello Folks, > >I went back to Alabama to get my new-to-me 1983 Airstream motorhome, and >found that is has a bad rod bearing. I would like to put in a Target or >Mr. Goodwrench engine, but the upshot of dozens of phone calls is that >GMC/Chevy doesn't have the carbureted 454 motorhome engine available any >longer - it's too OLD! Kind of like me. > >The coach is presently in Huntsville, AL, in the northern part of the >state. I love the rig, and, one way or another, WILL get a good motor in >it and bring it home to Santa Cruz, CA. > >Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > >Best regards, and Merry Christmas, > >Rik > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > >To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 10:24:14 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] Generator I need a generator this dsize because I desider after gittimng tired of smilling gas in my trailer to go with the safty of all electric. so to run my AC(and the ac-heatpump I plan to instsall under the front sofa) my water heater elect hot plate ,micro wave and other misc equipment that I need more than3000 wats of power.When one talks about expencive over kill I am amassed by that statement that we buy a $4000 trailer than think norting about buying a $40000 vechile to tow it with. Each to his own . After this is my Cow. Jim smith 1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross) 1992 Dodge Cummind(a $5200 vechile) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 10:28:43 -0500 From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Generator First I've heard of that. Where does one find the manufacturer's life expectancy rating? Did I overlook it on the web site? Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "lefty frizzell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 16:37 Subject: RE: [VACList] Generator > Those $1600 generators are not rated for continuous service...when > overworked they have the life expectancy of a grape on the floor. > > Spend a little more and get one that will last. > > Lefty Frizzell > http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 10:01:39 -0600 From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement It might make for continuing adventure, but it may be possible to drop the pan, unhook that one rod, polish the journal with a strip of emery cloth, then fit a suitable replacement rod bearing insert (after measuring the journal diameter and clearance with plastigage and a standard sized insert), and drive the old engine home. Just a loose rod bearing may respond to heavy oil (Shell Rotella 15W40 or a straight 30 or 20W50 "racing" oil, maybe some motor honey like STP, though I think the motor honey's do little good work and make cleaning the block harder when finally doing the rebuild). With either case you want to make the trip home leisurely off the interstates cruising at maybe 45 maximum. While the pan is off, clean the oil pump inlet screen and if it doesn't have an oil pressure gauge, add one. New filter is always important after a bearing failure. A rod knock need not be terminal, a good sticky oil to minimize metal to metal contact can let the engine run for a while. Oil consumption might be high. Or you could pull pan and head and remove that rod and piston completely. Remove the valve pushrods so the valves for that cylinder don't open, and drive it on 7 cylinders, gently. For that matter you could pull those two pushrods and let that bad rod bearing have a rest from the impact of ignition without pulling the rod and piston. Maybe pull just the intake valve rod and adjust the lifter so the exhaust valve is open all the time. There was a Cadillac engine that did that on purpose for better economy at light loads. Then with it at home fixing can be more leisurely and controlled. Having had both carbureted and fuel injected engines in various sizes, I'd go to the trouble of upgrading to a fuel injected engine. Gets better starts, better fuel economy, and better performance, with less sensitivity to clogged air filters. And by not washing the cylinder down with gasoline from over choked starts (unless the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm splits), the engine should last longer and be cleaner running. Gerald J. - -- Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer. Reproduction by permission only. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 11:45:18 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage Hey folks! I recenlty installed an Atwood water heater I found on Ebay! The stainless door swapped easily! Any way I thought I bought a standard pilot unit but recieved a Auto light unit. Love the idea of switching it on from inside on cold mornings! My dilema is the "filtered DC current" they expect it to be wired wired to. I know it's been mentioned in the past but what exactly do I need to wire it too? I shudder to think about asking a "RADIO SHACK flunky" what to use. BEEN THERE DONE THAT!!!! thanks for any advise in advance. AlanT Phoenix AZ 74 safari ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:04:02 -0500 From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage Alan, The normal A/S 12-volt electrical system is "filtered DC current". Some brands of converters supply AC to the trailer's low-voltage system when connected to shore power, switching over to battery when disconnected. A/S uses the UniVolt, which supplies only DC to the system and to the battery. <<Jim>> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Friday, December 20, 2002 12:36 PM Subject: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage >Hey folks! > >I recenlty installed an Atwood water heater I found on Ebay! >The stainless door swapped easily! >Any way I thought I bought a standard pilot unit but recieved a Auto light >unit. >Love the idea of switching it on from inside on cold mornings! > >My dilema is the "filtered DC current" they expect it to be wired wired to. >I know it's been mentioned in the past but what exactly do I need to wire it >too? >I shudder to think about asking a "RADIO SHACK flunky" what to use. >BEEN THERE DONE THAT!!!! > >thanks for any advise in advance. > >AlanT >Phoenix AZ >74 safari > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > >To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:35:09 -0500 From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Gerald, I once worked with a fella who related a story of driving a Buick Straight-8 on a long trip and having repeated bearing failures. He did what you suggested below, ending up on 5 cylinders at the end of the trip, IIRC. Of course, if you removed a rod and piston, you should also put something around the crank journal to keep the oil from being pumped out, causing no oil pressure. A hose clamp over a piece of innertube or gasket material should do the job. If you have an engine with extremely low oil pressure, you can thicken up the oil with some gear lube. Putting about half 90-weight oil in the thing will do wonders for the oil pressure, but you do have to be careful when the engine is cold. Dunno if even I'd want to set off on a 2000-mile trip with an engine rigged as we describe. That's with a full set of tools, shop manuals, and what I know about mechanics. Maybe I don't have enough sense of adventure. <<grin>> <<Jim>> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> - -----Original Message----- From: Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Friday, December 20, 2002 1:06 PM Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement >It might make for continuing adventure, but it may be possible to drop >the pan, unhook that one rod, polish the journal with a strip of emery >cloth, then fit a suitable replacement rod bearing insert (after >measuring the journal diameter and clearance with plastigage and a >standard sized insert), and drive the old engine home. Just a loose rod >bearing may respond to heavy oil (Shell Rotella 15W40 or a straight 30 >or 20W50 "racing" oil, maybe some motor honey like STP, though I think >the motor honey's do little good work and make cleaning the block harder >when finally doing the rebuild). With either case you want to make the >trip home leisurely off the interstates cruising at maybe 45 maximum. >While the pan is off, clean the oil pump inlet screen and if it doesn't >have an oil pressure gauge, add one. New filter is always important >after a bearing failure. A rod knock need not be terminal, a good sticky >oil to minimize metal to metal contact can let the engine run for a >while. Oil consumption might be high. > >Or you could pull pan and head and remove that rod and piston >completely. Remove the valve pushrods so the valves for that cylinder >don't open, and drive it on 7 cylinders, gently. For that matter you >could pull those two pushrods and let that bad rod bearing have a rest >from the impact of ignition without pulling the rod and piston. Maybe >pull just the intake valve rod and adjust the lifter so the exhaust >valve is open all the time. There was a Cadillac engine that did that on >purpose for better economy at light loads. > >Then with it at home fixing can be more leisurely and controlled. > >Having had both carbureted and fuel injected engines in various sizes, >I'd go to the trouble of upgrading to a fuel injected engine. Gets >better starts, better fuel economy, and better performance, with less >sensitivity to clogged air filters. And by not washing the cylinder down >with gasoline from over choked starts (unless the fuel pressure >regulator diaphragm splits), the engine should last longer and be >cleaner running. > >Gerald J. >-- >Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer. >Reproduction by permission only. > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > >To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:52:46 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage AlanT. Hook it to 12 volts DC. Andy inlandrv.com airstreamparts.com airstreamcandy.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:06:57 -0600 From: lefty frizzell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Generator Check out consumer reports...and there's a lot of info on the web. Most generators, especially the smaller ones, are not rated for continuous use. Lefty Frizzell http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell **** I can only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow is not looking too good either. **** - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of James Greene Sent: December 20, 2002 09:29 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] Generator First I've heard of that. Where does one find the manufacturer's life expectancy rating? Did I overlook it on the web site? Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "lefty frizzell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 16:37 Subject: RE: [VACList] Generator > Those $1600 generators are not rated for continuous service...when > overworked they have the life expectancy of a grape on the floor. > > Spend a little more and get one that will last. > > Lefty Frizzell > http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 11:13:50 -0800 From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Courtesy Parking: Pending Hi Polly, I have always admired your pioneering spirit. I think it is good for the list to be exposed to your human powered (treadle) sewing machines as well as any technology that simplifies, lightens, reduces power requirements etc. Such technologies are bound to improve the quality of life for us tin can tourists. Also easily as valid a discussion point as 10,000 watt generators :) Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com Oceanside, CA - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [VACList] Courtesy Parking: Pending > The sewing machine question - the wife of the couple is on another list about > antique sewing machines that I am on - We collect and use people powered > sewing machines, hand cranks and treadles. So I wanted to know how many > sewing machines would go to NM with them? I bought my first people powered > sewing machine for use in my AS - now I own over 30 sewing machines, only one > of which goes camping with me.LOL! So you see that the question was on topic- > I choose to use an old technology instead of using a generator to sew when I > camp. > > > Just Plain Polly > 1964 Globe Trotter > Colorado > WBCCI 7113 > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 11:01:52 -0800 From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage With the autopilot on my RV-500 I used 12 volts directly from the coaches battery. That is a clean 12 volt with no electronic artifacts. It will work perfectly. Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com 66 Airstream Safari Mira Mar Mobile Park Oceanside, CA - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 8:45 AM Subject: [VACList] Re: water heater voltage > Hey folks! > > I recenlty installed an Atwood water heater I found on Ebay! > The stainless door swapped easily! > Any way I thought I bought a standard pilot unit but recieved a Auto light > unit. > Love the idea of switching it on from inside on cold mornings! > > My dilema is the "filtered DC current" they expect it to be wired wired to. > I know it's been mentioned in the past but what exactly do I need to wire it > too? > I shudder to think about asking a "RADIO SHACK flunky" what to use. > BEEN THERE DONE THAT!!!! > > thanks for any advise in advance. > > AlanT > Phoenix AZ > 74 safari > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:06:33 -0800 From: "Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Fw: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission Subject: Re: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission > Tell your Grandpa that the technology has come a long way in recent years. > > Most automakers recommend the automatic over the stick shift for safety > reasons. Primarily because the transmission and engine are always engaged. > [With a stick it is possible to get the transmission into neutral and then > have a tough time getting it back in gear - typically when downshifting when > you do want the vehicle in gear to hold back the vehicle and trailer on a > down grade.] I know I will get a lot of flack on this from stick > affectionados.] > > Some of the new automatics are phenomenal, such as the GM Allison on the HD > pickups. Even the current Hydramatics (on trucks and Yukon/Tahoe/Suburbans > anyway include a Tow mode which is engaged by a touch of the button on the > end of the shift lever. This causes the shift points to be reprogrammed > (both up and down) to better match the load and operation of a trailering > situation. It is also automatically entered if the transmission is under > stress and is starting to overheat. [These new vehicles are much smarter > than the driver. All you have to do is look in the owner's manual to see > how many messages the computers recognize, tell the driver, and the action > they take on their own!] > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 9:46 PM > Subject: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission > > > > My Grandpa says that there is no way he would pull any kind of > > trailer with an automatic transmission (he drove a concrete truck for > > 40 years). What is everyone's opinion on the automatic vs manual > > transmission? I have to admit I am a little intimidated about > > driving a big truck anyway and if it was a manual I'd probably cry > > when I came to my first incline. :o) > > > > Thanks, > > Kelly > > > > > > To unsubscribe from this group, go to > http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/AirstreamList/ and unsubscribe. To suspend > delivery while traveling, simply change the delivery option to No Mail-Web > only. > > > > > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:07:37 -0800 From: "Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fw: [VACList] Tekonsha Voyager Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 11:16 AM Subject: Fw: [VACList] Tekonsha Voyager > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 2:21 PM > Subject: Re: [VACList] Tekonsha Voyager > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 11:26 AM > > Subject: Re: [VACList] Tekonsha Voyager > > > > > > I second Jim's assessment. > > > > The Voyager has a hard time figuring out the intent of the driver since it > > is not getting any direct information on the braking activity of the > driver > > (which made the old hydraulic units which tapped into the brake system so > > good). > > > > The Prodigy has a much smarter computer than the Voyager, so it second > > guesses the driver's intent very well. > > > > Also, if you have a late model truck (or SUV), the wiring of the Prodigy > is > > a snap. Just be sure to buy the appropriate Tekonsha/Prodigy adapter > cable. > > It plugs into the truck's electrical panel, and into the Prodigy brake > > controller. > > > > Also, the position (angle) of the Prodigy controller is not critical, (if > > you bump the Voyager, and the angle changes, all of the braking > adjustments > > are off.) The Prodigy comes with a rigidly mounted slide in bracket that > > can't move, if properly installed. > > > > If you have more than one tow vehicle, the Prodigy can be unplugged and be > > quickly reconnected to another vehicle. > > > > However, the main strength of the Prodigy is that it is the first inertia > > controller to reliably and correctly respond to the actions of the tow > > vehicle driver. And this is worth any price diffeential between it and a > > lesser brake controller. > > > > Oliver Filippi > > > > > > > > > Dick, > > > The Prodigy is far better than the Voyager. I've had both, and wouldn't > > > consider the latter under any circumstances. It isn't like the price > > > difference is hundreds of dollars, either. Your safety and peace of mind > > is > > > worth the small difference. > > > > > > <<Jim>> > > > > > > <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> > > > <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> > > > <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> > > > <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Dick Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Date: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 11:53 AM > > > Subject: [VACList] Tekonsha Voyager > > > > > > > > > >I understand that the Tekonsha Prodigy or the Hayes Lemmerz with > > > >remote are generally preferred by members of the VACList but I am > > > >wondering if anyone can share their experience with the Tekonsha > > > >Voyager and/or Envoy on a small trailer. Thanks. > > > > > > > >Dick > > > >'62 Bambi > > > >-- > > > >__________________________________________________________ > > > >Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Mail.com > > > >http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup > > > > > > > >Meet Singles > > > >http://corp.mail.com/lavalife > > > > > > > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > > > > > > >To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > > > >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > > > > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 16:21:32 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander We have recently become the owners of a 1964 Overlander. We have been Airstreamers for quite a while and just saw this unit on the side of the road. About 10 minutes later we towed away our new second RV. Our plan is to restore the unit. The trailer is reasonably sound and has all of the original interior. The major flaw is the rear bath plumbing.....it appears to have been renovated for permanant setup. I plan to install two tanks and gate valves as we have in the 1992 Excella. My question is: What should I start on to see if there is a valid reason to abandon the renovation plan? I feel like I can handle pluming, electrical and such since I am a mechanical contractor. I see notes from time to time about axle replacements. What drives this issue? The original documents are in the trailer and we bought it within five miles of where is was sold new in 1964. The exterior is almost perfect. The tires were rotten but since we live 6 miles from where we found it, I towed it home at 10 MPH with no problems. Should I start with brakes and bearings and work my way up? The undershell aluminum is in good shape with the exception of the rear under the bathroom. I stock sheet aluminum in my warehouse, so I can fix this. Final question for today-----the floor is Ok but a little spongy in a couple of places. What if I remove the carpet and then put 1/4" underlayment down and re-carpet? Is this viable? Stop to see us::::: Clay & Judy 2623 Who do you see to join the VAC group? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 16:30:40 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Call Darrel Ferguson at (864)895-7880...Tell him that Jesse Hicks recommended you. He is the best. He will not pull the engine and put it back, but if you get it to him, it will be new when you get it back. He is located North of Greenville, SC in the Mountain View area. This is 160 miles NE of Atlanta. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:43:05 -0500 From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Fw: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission The only manual transmission that I know of that is currently available in new vehicles AND rated to tow is found in the Dodge pickups, tied to the Cummins diesel engine. I have one of these. I was hesitant getting it, but neither my wife or I have had any probems and are happy with our decision. Low gear is a "creeper", good up to only 10 mph or so. It is VERY easy to get it going from a dead stop on a hill. Scott '60 Overlander - ----- Original Message ----- > > Subject: Re: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 9:46 PM > > Subject: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission > > I have to admit I am a little intimidated about > > > driving a big truck anyway and if it was a manual I'd probably cry > > > when I came to my first incline. :o) > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Kelly > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 19:19:42 -0500 From: "DAVID SAWICKI" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Just to echo Chris's comment, I replaced the V8 in my 1991 Caprice 4door sedan 65,000 miles ago. It was a rebuilt from Jasper. Very happy with the replacement. It still runs like a top and has towed the Caravel over 25,000 miles. Dave Sawicki '69 Caravel - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Bryant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 7:52 AM Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement > Rik & Susan Beeson wrote: > > >I went back to Alabama to get my new-to-me 1983 Airstream motorhome, and > >found that is has a bad rod bearing. I would like to put in a Target or > >Mr. Goodwrench engine, but the upshot of dozens of phone calls is that > >GMC/Chevy doesn't have the carbureted 454 motorhome engine available any > >longer - it's too OLD! Kind of like me. > > http://www.jasperengines.com/frames.html - a quality rebuilt can be > every bit as good as a new engine. > > -- > Chris Bryant > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 21:17:32 -0500 From: "Jim Stewart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] 1974 "Argosy Motorhome" There is a very interesting 1974 Argosy mated to a Ford Van on RV Trader on Line. It is listed under Airstream. Jim '61 Bambi ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:44:46 -0800 From: "Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Need for automatic transmission oil cooler over OEM The reason factory installed transmission oil coolers on pleasure vehicles (not heavy duty commercial trucks) are often inadequate for heavy duty use is because the product decision is made by the marketing department, not the engineering department. Remember, these are the guys that recommended 24 PSI inflation pressure in the tires (for a softer ride, not safety or handling). Likewise, these folks also call out for extraordinarily long oil change intervals so that a bunch of other service activities can be performed at the same time by the dealer. Granted, the oils are a lot better than they used to be, and engines are machined to much closer tolerances BUT oil does get chemically contaminated from blow by, and many of the additives break down or are consumed by long mileage. OEM transmission oil coolers are designed to prolong the life of the transmission (taking into account it's expected life) they are not designed to prolong the life indefinitely. Also, there are cost considerations. All told, the manufacturer makes a value judgment as to the function and cost of everything he puts into his vehicles. Oliver Filippi Some ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 21:50:57 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 21:50:46 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander The spongy spots on the ffoor can probaly be repaired permantly with saturation epoxy remove carpet and tile and check. Jim Smith ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 21:46:30 -0600 From: "JRKleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander Jim, I totally agree with that! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 23:55:33 -0500 From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] 1964 Land Yacht Overlander Welcome to the silver madness. I will pass on the undercarriage stuff, except to say that it would be sad to fix it up nice and then have it take a digger at 55 on asphalt. As far as the rear bath goes, it never did have a grey water tank, and wasn't designed to carry that much more weight. Water is heavy ! Especially back there hanging in space. As far as the floor goes, first figure out why it rotted, and fix the leaks. When you take up the carpet, you may find it is worse than you though. We spend a lot of time on fixing floors; replaceing plywood, using penetrating epoxy to strenthen punky wood, and arguing about the best floors to have. For the fixing go to Tom Patterson's archives of all our list talk ( May he live long and have plenty of storage space) http://www.tompatterson.com/wgall.html I am a cork floor fan. No carpets for me, they get too dirty too fast. You can see my floor at: http://home.tiac.net/~jtdjtd/aspix/floor.html Daisy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > We have recently become the owners of a 1964 Overlander. We have been Airstreamers >for quite a while and just saw this unit on the side of the road. About 10 minutes >later we towed away our new second RV. > Our plan is to restore the unit. The trailer is reasonably sound and has all of the >original interior. The major flaw is the rear bath plumbing.....it appears to have >been renovated for permanant setup. > I plan to install two tanks and gate valves as we have in the 1992 Excella. > > My question is: What should I start on to see if there is a valid reason to abandon >the renovation plan? I feel like I can handle pluming, electrical and such since I >am a mechanical contractor. I see notes from time to time about axle replacements. >What drives this issue? > The original documents are in the trailer and we bought it within five miles of >where is was sold new in 1964. The exterior is almost perfect. The tires were >rotten but since we live 6 miles from where we found it, I towed it home at 10 MPH >with no problems. > Should I start with brakes and bearings and work my way up? The undershell aluminum >is in good shape with the exception of the rear under the bathroom. I stock sheet >aluminum in my warehouse, so I can fix this. > > Final question for today-----the floor is Ok but a little spongy in a couple of >places. What if I remove the carpet and then put 1/4" underlayment down and >re-carpet? Is this viable? > > Stop to see us::::: Clay & Judy 2623 > > Who do you see to join the VAC group? > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 23:13:35 -0600 From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Fw: [A/S] Automatic vs manual transmission Until you get into the heavy duty truck manual transmissions (not sold in half ton trucks) its hard to get a wide range of ratios. The automatic plus hydraulic torque converter give a starting ratio in the range of 6 or 7:1 at the transmission. I used to have an '86 F150 with a Warner T-91 transmission with a 6.5:1 first gear and it was a good towing truck and even Ford sales types would admit it would start a trailer as good as the automatic. My current tow vehicle is a '98 F-150 with the small V-8. To give it a chance at starting the load I have change the rear axle from 3.08 to 4.10:1 in effect sacrificing overdrive for a near granny gear. My older Ford had an overall ratio from engine to axle of about 22.75:1 (6.5:1 in the transmission and 3.50 in the rear axle). My current F-150 has an overall ratio of (4.10 axle, 3.92 first gear) 16:1 which has proven adequate for my Caravel. The stock axle ratio wouldn't have been satisfactory for towing the Caravel except when empty and starting downhill or downwind. The weak place in my latest truck is the clutch. It can be smoked by trying to pop the clutch with the engine speed up. So far the damage hasn't proven disabling, but I have created smoke once, so I don't do that anymore. I rate my latest truck at a GCW of 9900 pounds though I have hauled a load of beans in a wagon on mostly level roads, starting on wet grass that grossed 11,000 pounds at the elevator scale. I didn't have to start uphill and I didn't go very fast. I'm still NOT a fan of an automatic transmission, but I know I can't break the manual transmission, though I know I can break the clutch. Gerald J. - -- Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer. Reproduction by permission only. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 23:13:32 -0600 From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement I forgot about holding the oil in. I know my dad did pull the rod and piston from a 35 Chevy once that he'd bought. It did run, but when he hauled it to trade it to his brother for something, he towed it, because the rod had made a hole in the side of the block and maybe the pan too. The missing rod would upset the crankshaft balance, another reason to take the trip gently, not to rush. Whether the trip would be a success could depend a great deal on what cause that bad rod bearing. Ordinarily they are loaded quite equally and oiled quite equally so whatever hits one, should hit the other. I had a '54 ford in line six that I hauled out and took apart at about 65,000 (having run twice as far as my dad's precious engine in his previous vehicle) and found it still within factor specs except that one rod bearing was scored. Inspecting the crankshaft, I found that they had broken a drill bit in the oil hole so had drilled it out larger and the deburring step was missed (hole probably was bigger than the chamfering bit) and a burr from that drilling had scored the bearing insert. So instead of rebuilding that engine, all I did was clean it up. In the failed '83 Airstream motor home engine its conceivable that an oil hole was missed and that one journal was lubricated only by splashes from the others which lead to its shorter life. Gerald J. - -- Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer. Reproduction by permission only. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 00:06:05 -0800 From: Rik & Susan Beeson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement Thanks for the suggestions, but I want it FIXED, not patched. I expect this will be my last motorhome, and I want the engine to outlive me. To that end, I will install a pre-luber on whatever engine I end up getting for it. Best regards, Rik Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote: >It might make for continuing adventure, but it may be possible to drop >the pan, unhook that one rod, polish the journal with a strip of emery >cloth, then fit a suitable replacement rod bearing insert (after >measuring the journal diameter and clearance with plastigage and a >standard sized insert), and drive the old engine home. Just a loose rod >bearing may respond to heavy oil (Shell Rotella 15W40 or a straight 30 >or 20W50 "racing" oil, maybe some motor honey like STP, though I think >the motor honey's do little good work and make cleaning the block harder >when finally doing the rebuild). With either case you want to make the >trip home leisurely off the interstates cruising at maybe 45 maximum. >While the pan is off, clean the oil pump inlet screen and if it doesn't >have an oil pressure gauge, add one. New filter is always important >after a bearing failure. A rod knock need not be terminal, a good sticky >oil to minimize metal to metal contact can let the engine run for a >while. Oil consumption might be high. > >Or you could pull pan and head and remove that rod and piston >completely. Remove the valve pushrods so the valves for that cylinder >don't open, and drive it on 7 cylinders, gently. For that matter you >could pull those two pushrods and let that bad rod bearing have a rest >from the impact of ignition without pulling the rod and piston. Maybe >pull just the intake valve rod and adjust the lifter so the exhaust >valve is open all the time. There was a Cadillac engine that did that on >purpose for better economy at light loads. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 01:56:14 -0700 From: "Mike Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement PLEASE! Do yourself a favor, fix it right the first time or you risk the chance of destoring a very expensive and hard to find block and crank.I am a 30 year journeyman mechanic. Trust me. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rik & Susan Beeson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2002 1:06 AM Subject: Re: [VACList] Motorhome engine replacement > Thanks for the suggestions, but I want it FIXED, not patched. I expect > this will be my last motorhome, and I want the engine to outlive me. To > that end, I will install a pre-luber on whatever engine I end up getting > for it. > > Best regards, > > Rik > > Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote: > > >It might make for continuing adventure, but it may be possible to drop > >the pan, unhook that one rod, polish the journal with a strip of emery > >cloth, then fit a suitable replacement rod bearing insert (after > >measuring the journal diameter and clearance with plastigage and a > >standard sized insert), and drive the old engine home. Just a loose rod > >bearing may respond to heavy oil (Shell Rotella 15W40 or a straight 30 > >or 20W50 "racing" oil, maybe some motor honey like STP, though I think > >the motor honey's do little good work and make cleaning the block harder > >when finally doing the rebuild). With either case you want to make the > >trip home leisurely off the interstates cruising at maybe 45 maximum. > >While the pan is off, clean the oil pump inlet screen and if it doesn't > >have an oil pressure gauge, add one. New filter is always important > >after a bearing failure. A rod knock need not be terminal, a good sticky > >oil to minimize metal to metal contact can let the engine run for a > >while. Oil consumption might be high. > > > >Or you could pull pan and head and remove that rod and piston > >completely. Remove the valve pushrods so the valves for that cylinder > >don't open, and drive it on 7 cylinders, gently. For that matter you > >could pull those two pushrods and let that bad rod bearing have a rest > >from the impact of ignition without pulling the rod and piston. Maybe > >pull just the intake valve rod and adjust the lifter so the exhaust > >valve is open all the time. There was a Cadillac engine that did that on > >purpose for better economy at light loads. > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ End of VACList Digest V3 #49 **************************** When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
