On Thu, Feb 18, 2010 at 9:54 AM, Don Ordes <f...@tribcsp.com> wrote:

>  Wes, see comments/questions below:
>


Hi DonO,

Some answers to your questions about Model Magic in fly tying (my findings):

Material when set is more firm than soft, but I would not describe the
surface as hard and ungiving.  If you want a super hard surface, coat it
with a hard-shell paint.  I am looking into using the UV-light cured product
as a substitute for epoxy.  Have not tried epoxy over the foam.

Super glue and Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails have no effect on the foam.
 Haven't had any melting problems yet.

I do not use enamel, since the range of acrylics is far greater and easier
to use, at least for my purposes.

The material has no smell either "wet" or "dry".

The material sets overnight.  You can use a microwave in short bursts to
hurry along the process.  You can finger shape the foam until it reaches a
point where it no longer accepts your manipulations...gets too springy.  If
you finger mold an area that is delicate and unsupported, at some point when
you are fishing, that area will just break off the fly.

You should NOT microwave a body that has a hook set into it.  Metal and
microwaves don't get along.

Wrapping the hook shank is necessary to keep the hook from rotating in the
foam.  Mono would not work very well.  You need a wrap material that is
somewhat absorbent to soak in the foam and glue.  I would always use glue to
set the hook, you need to get into all the nooks and crannies.  Molding foam
around a hook shank doesn't do that reliably.

Had a friend who was working on a similar idea for salt water crab patterns.
 Not sure how far along he got on it.  I will be using barbell eyes for the
crawfish patterns to anchor the rear end of the crawfish.


Best bet is just to go buy a package of the foam and get to playing.  The
stuff is ridiculously cheap and available widely.  Once you open the
package, store the stuff in a small, sealed jar.


Wes

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