Thanks that was helpful.

On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 1:56 PM, Don Ordes <[email protected]> wrote:

> **
> Mike,
>
> Again, it depends on a lot of things, mostly, the metallurgy and
> forging/bending processes used to create the hook.
>
> Understanding the basic metalurgy is helpful, but it's also somewhat
> practical wisdom.  A metal maintains it strength when bending if it can
> return to it's original shape.  Bending it beyond that means you 'yield' the
> metal.  How far you go past yield will determine how much strength of the
> metal you compromised.  If you heat the metal before bending, you are less
> apt to break it, but you will have a more brittle metal once it cools.
>
> Wire hooks can bend quite a bit, and bend more easily.  Forged hooks are
> harder to bend, but are more brittle, therefore may break.  The metallurgy
> (combinations of metal) in the wire stock will determine just how soft or
> brittle the metal will become once heat treated, but different methods of
> heat-treating and normalizing will affect properties also.
>
> The way I've always done it is by experimentation.  i don't like heating
> hooks, because it takes the finish off, and they may rust under the body.  I
> bend a hook to see when it breaks, and then use the butt-end for a
> tandem/articulated fly.  Now I know the breaking point and get a feel for
> how brittle the metal is.  I go 50% of that and see if the metal looks
> finely cracked at the bend, of if the finish chipped off.  If so, I bend
> less.  I may also bend in a longer radius to spread the bend over a longer
> area of hook- common sense.
>
> I'm not too concerned with hook strength for fly-fishing, because the
> leader will always be the weakest link.  Not many people lift a very large
> fish out of the water on the hook, especially flyfishers.  Bait-fishers and
> lure fishers do it and the gear is sized for it.
>
> I had a hook come in a box of Mustads that was way off spec, either for
> metallurgy or tempering.  I put it in the vise and it was like a soft
> plastic.  I could twist it like a baggie tie and tie it in a knot- it was
> like a stiff piece of string.  No other hooks in the box were like that.
>
> DonO
>
>
>
>  ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Michael Bliss <[email protected]>
> *To:* [email protected]
>   *Sent:* Wednesday, August 24, 2011 5:36 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [VFB] Up or Straight eye for streamers
>
> Not an answer but a question to the group.  I have bent hooks to change the
> eye and to bend the hook.  Any thoughts about what this does to the
> integrity of the hook?  If the metal is warm will that help?
>
> Mike
>
> On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Rodger Oleson 
> <[email protected]>wrote:
>
>> **
>> I've been looking at streamers in several different places in books and on
>> the web.  I'm wondering what the general consensus is as to using down eyes
>> or straight eyes for the hooks.  It seems it is a bit difficult to
>> find/afford some of the straight-eyed streamer hooks.  Well maybe not
>> totally out of line, but it seems strange to pay a couple dollars more for
>> 25 TMC/Tiemco 8089's as opposed to a similar(R74-9672) mustad hook with a
>> down eye.  (Seems to be the general pricing trend)  Is it a case of paying
>> for something better or just pricing to take advantage of what the market
>> will bear?
>> Anybody here have any thoughts/reasons  for choosing down eye or straight
>> eye hooks for streamers?
>> I just thought I'd tie a box full of Woolly Buggers while listening to the
>> Rangers on the radio, and noticed I had very few hooks with straight eyes
>> and 4X long.
>>
>> Rodger O.
>>
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>
>
>
> --
> Mike Bliss
> Aloha from Hawaii
>
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-- 
Mike Bliss
Aloha from Hawaii

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