Tony: I’ll give it a try for sure. I wonder that, since the two hairline cracks are right where you step when getting in and out of the boat, and it puts a LOT of stress on the outside bottom of the boat, should I do as Jimi said and “JB Weld the “patch” over the holes and/or cracks, would it help or hinder it by taking a piece of sheet aluminum, then riveting it in place ALONG WITH the JB Weld??? 10 million rivets always held the F-15’s I used to work on in the Air Force together a Mach2 or better LOL..Thanks, Chuck
From: Anthony Spezio Sent: Monday, January 13, 2014 10:45 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [VFB] Repairing my boat's tiny cracks, and pinholes I go along with Jimi on this. I repaired an aluminum boat about five years ago with JB weld. I have since sold it but as far as I know it is still doing fine. Tony On Monday, January 13, 2014 9:03 AM, "Jimi, AKA Desert Eagle" <[email protected]> wrote: Morning Chuck, and all. Big tip, never use auto store or auto anything fiberglass and resin to try to fix an aluminum boat. Common mistake and recommended all the time, but you see the results yourself. For patching any seam leakage or holes up to 1/2" buy the JB weld in a set. It has parts A and B, mix equal amounts by eye, (not absolutely critical to have exactly 50 50 mix). You can get it at any auto parts store, note, don't get the small 1 oz tube kit, get the professional 5 oz kit. As long as it is closed it lasts for years, (I have some over 30 years old that works perfectly. Nor the repair. sand the area to be patch with fine sandpaper or emery cloth, both sides, (in and outside). Us acetone to clean the area in and out. Use the ice lolly stick you used to mix it with to place a blob on the hole. If it is small, (pin hole to about 16th inch no real backing is needed), press the blob a bit till it oozes thru. Take another small blob and put on the other side from where you started. Take a stip of clear packing tape and place it centered over the patch and gently press so the JB spreads out a bit and then smooth to a genital 1/16 to 1/8th" high in the center out patch. Repeat on the other side. Let cure overnight and go fishing. Now, for holes 1/8" and larger, same process, (sand clean etc.), but we add something, your pop can. Take the empty pop can you have been enjoying while cleaning the area and snip it open with your scissors, (note, using the same scissors you normally use for trimming hackle is not recommended, it will give your Royal Coachman a bad hair day...). Trim the aluminum from the can to a patch that will overlap the hole by a minimum of 4 times the hole size for holes up to half inch. Over that have the overlap about 3/8ths to half inch all the way around. Note, the inside of the can is coated so you need to sand and clean it with acetone till it is bright aluminum and you and see the sanding marks in it. Again, mix your JB and coat the hull and the patch and place. Press it into place and tape as before, repeat with a second patch on the inside, or outside if you started on the inside. If you put enough JB on the inside it should spread around the edges enough to make a nice clean patch suitable for bare feet. Now, the big question, did all that make sense? Jimi Desert Eagle Shooters Rifle Marksmanship Instructor Long Range Precision Rifle Instructor ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Alexander To: fly fishing for panfish ; [email protected] Sent: Monday, January 13, 2014 3:18 AM Subject: [VFB] Repairing my boat's tiny cracks, and pinholes Folks: My old jon boat is probably older than me (see attached pics), but I had it looking pretty decent in these pics after I painted it, and put fiberglass in the bottom outside and the bottom inside as well. But, that regular fiberglass resin, the type that is clear, when you walk through the boat, as in getting in or out of the boat, that stuff cracks pretty easily. They make a “Bondo” type fiberglass that is an opaque and green in color. Does anybody here know if that “Bondo type” does a better job on things like this than the traditional clear resin, used WITH fiberglass cloth as well. I will also use the cloth with the Bondo type if that is what I end up going with. And help though, no matter what it is, as far as fixing cracks, or pinholes in the bottom of an aluminum jon boat would be greatly appreciated, cause I sit up front, and run that foot controlled trolling motor, while my wife had a regular trolling motor with her, and so when we are ready to go a cpl MILES to the end of the other end of the lake, or if it comes up a thunderstorm, we crank BOTH trolling motors up on HIGH and a Half LOL, and high tail it to the boat ramp. Thanks a lot. I wish I still had my welding torches and tanks. I would just get aluminum brazing rods and braze the cracks and holes. My wife has the sump pump in back of the boat, and she says she’s tired of running that thing all the time, when she could be FISHING instead LOL..And we all know what happens when momma ain’t happy..., Chuck -- -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the "VFB Mail" group. 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