Hi All, coming out again if I may? I've had a pontoon boat for a few years now and have a story to relate.
A Good friend and I were drifting on Alberta's McLeod River looking for Grayling and Athabasca Rainbows. I came thru some rapids ahead of him and looked back to watch his ride splash through. The next thing I see is him hanging almost in the water as one pontoon came up under his arm and tilted him almost ninety degrees. The oar was in his hand swinging at the air as he still tried to avoid the on coming boulders. He's an agile old fart with only one oar in the water that would be bad enough but when it's too short that's even worse. ;O) Slightly damp and cursing he manages shore without assistance. The frame that connected the pontoon to his seat had split right at the welds. His pontoon boat has a painted steel frame that worked well for the first year but then rusted thru at the welded joints the next season. I don't think he ever drained the water out of the tubes of the frame. All the ends were plugged with rubber bungs. Water got in but didn't get out easily. There we were in the middle of no-where with his boat literally broken in half. So we had lunch. Things always look better with a full belly. We had our anchor ropes to fix it with. Tyed the pontoon under his chair with some drift wood to hold it slightly apart from the other one. That allowed him limited use of the oar and we made it home. The manufacturers were good about it even though the one-year warranty was off (he was into the second season) they replaced the frame NC. The frame on your selected boat does it disassemble? If it does I'd swab with grease through the pipes. There is corrosion inhibitor that comes in a spray can. I remembered my mechanic used it on a battery terminal. Sprayed the battery post and I didn't have a problem for a long time. "Fluid Film" may be the brand name. When I got home from that trip I carefully checked and serviced my boat. Boats with stainless steel frames are probably the best but even these aren't bullet proof. The welds are not corrosion proof as they are not stainless and the corrosion inhibitor is needed each season. I would like to rig a better footrest for my boat. I find it uncomfortable after a few hours. It cuts into the back of my ankle when resting on it. Knees, legs and the bottom of my foot become fatigued after pushing on the bar while rowing for longer periods. I see some models now have a small platform in front of the chair. So when's this think tank going into production of it's own craft? A nylon plastic frame would work. No welding, No rusting, not as heavy. They need skid pads on the front and back of the pontoons for mooring on rocky shores and bumping down rocky chutes. Flip down arm rests for real comfort. Wider beam for better stability, and an insert for the oars, so that an oar length choice is available to the individual. Maybe a small attachable transom, have heard of others using electric motors. Where's the Molson holder? Some insurance might be a good idea too... Calm days eh Wally Lutz "Jimmy D. Moore" wrote: > Thanks to Dan, Dave, DonO, Orlando and all the rest who gave me the > straight forward and insightful information on kickers, tubes and > pontoon craft. Pontoon Craft it is. Cottonmouths here in C. Texas was > the deciding factor. Appreciate everyone's help and will let you know > what I come up with. Now for some serious looking and "horse trading." > > Jimmy D. Moore I FISH BECAUSE I MUST ! > " TY FLYER " But, more importantly, I fish because > Woodway, TX my Dad taught me! > > Scout Exec. BSA,(Ret.) - Outdoor Writer, TOWA, GRTU, FFF > For fly fishing info across the USA world. check out > http://www.BIGTROUTMAN.homestead.com/MainPage.html > > By popular request, here's the URL for Sporting Tales Magazine > http://sportingtales.com/main.php > > World Clock: http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/
