Hi Larry, Here are some additional things to think about while you practice spinning hair. There seem to be two things that contribute the spinning action of hair on the shank.
The main one has to do with the starting circumference of the thread loop compared to its circumference when tightened. For example, let�s assume a hook shank is about half a millimeter in cross section. This means the length of a single wrap of thread around the bare hook will be about 1.5 mm. Let�s say your clump of deer hair is 3 mm in diameter and you take a loose loop around it. The circumference of that loop is going to be 8 or 9 mm. As you tighten several things happen. The loop will get smaller as you pull. This causes rotation because of friction between thread and hair. Thread-against-hair slides a little less than hair-against-hair, so the bundle rotates as hairs shift and slide over each other. The thread loop keeps getting smaller so rotation and sliding continues until the hair is crushed and the thread is snug. This explains one reason why big bunches of hair are more difficult to handle. If you used a slightly larger 5 mm bunch, then the starting circumference is over 15 mm, and much more spinning can take place before the loop is snug. On the other hand, if you hold the hair in place the thread will slide over it and compress it until it�s crushed against the shank. In addition to using smaller clumps you can also experiment with the time when you let go of the hair while pulling the loop down. The later you release the hair, there will be more crushing and less spin. The second factor that I see has to do with stretch in the thread. This is much more apparent when tying on hard hair, or when doing Fibetts for tails, etc. In those cases you will experience unwanted spinning as the thread is snugged down. The solution there is to start with the material on the near side instead of on top the hook, so the stretch pulls the material up on top. I only mention this because sometimes while you�re tightening a second hair clump you�ll see the first clump move a bit (rotate). This tells you that there was some unstretched thread in or before that first clump. This can only be remedied by developing the habit of pulling hard, so you�re tying close to the thread�s breaking strength. It may be annoying to develop that skill but the reward is worth it, durable flies that last through many fish. Have fun, Mark --- Larry Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Paul and Mark: Thanks. I do tie elk-hair caddis flies, and I can keep the > hair from rotating around the hook. No problem. When I tried to tie in > bunches of hair on my hook for the Goddard caddis, the hair would, as Paul > says, rotate around the hook shank. I think I might be putting too much hair > on at a time. > > Larry Johnson > > >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 04/22/04 06:29AM >>> > Don was of course referring to an Elkhair Caddis not a Goddard Caddis > which does require spun hair. > I'm not sure what Larry's problem is; you want the hair to spin. > However, perhaps you are complaining about the already spun hair > rotating on the hook, thus turning your perfectly shaped Goddard into a > Dali. If so, Mike's advice is step 1. Step 2 is to take an extra very > tight wrap around the spun bunch, right on top (very important) of the > previous spinning wraps. No guarantee, but it will help. > Cheers, > Paul > http://www.galesendpress.com ===== Mark Klemick ! GoFishGo ! [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25� http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
