Paul, Joyce and Mark,

Thank you.  I did the fold because the feather was "accepting" of it and I
wondered about it.  Now I have a new technique to try.  I appreciate the
help.

Mike


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Marriner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: [VFB] Folding Hackle


> Mike, the method given by Joyce is the one favoured by professional
> tiers; any other is too slow. Exceptions aside, feathers for folding
> fall into three categories, each generally for a specific purpose.
> 1. Long cock neck hackles for palmering: here you get a pleasing taper
> from rear to front. Folding gives a slight slant to the fibres and helps
> prevent fibres being tied down while winding. Heavily used in
> feather-wing salmon fly tying.
> 2. Small cock neck or saddle tied in at the head to serve as a rearward
> slanting collar or for pulling down into a throat.
> 3. Hen saddle; because these are all web they fold easily. Add to this
> the fact that they are inexpensive makes them the choice of most
> commercial Atlantic salmon tiers for collars and throats on wet flies.
>
> To amplify what Joyce wrote:
> Step 1: Stroke the fibres rearward from where you want to begin winding
> into a vertical position.
> Step 2: With the shiny side facing you, tie in on the side of the shank
> directly "forward" (towards the tip) of first vertical fibres: after the
> first two wraps ease the feather rearward slightly to pull a small
> portion of the tip from under the wraps. Now finish tying off using the
> Type 3 "kink lock" in How to Choose...
> Step 3: With the butt of the feather in your left hand (scissors in your
> right), position the feather with the shiny side up and the butt
> pointing at you. Now run the back edge of your scissors down the left,
> and then the right, side of the stem (often just the right side is
> enough). The fibres will fold downward on each side. How radically will
> depend on whether or not you are in a webby area. Don't be afraid to
> repeat. Remember, the goal is not to have the fibres pointing vertically
> downward (although you see that in a lot of book photos), merely to have
> convinced them to orient in the direction you want when wound and
> stroked.
> Step 4: Proceed as per Joyce.
>
> Notes:
> 1. Some hackle stems are twisted and will not fold well regardless.
> 2. Sometimes fibres will shoot off at an angle after Step 1. If they
> bother you snip them out early.
> 3. I don't find the hackle pliers and fingers technique convenient for
> very long hackles. Better to mount a bulldog clip (a la A.K. Best's
> third hand but with more holding power) on your bench if you want to go
> that route. The clip is mighty handy for other uses as well.
> 4. Some well-known tiers moisten their fingers while folding with the
> pliers route. There are also numerous combinations of holding and
> stroking techniques.
> 5. Folding via the clip (or hackle pliers) method is a great way to get
> a bunch of hackle fibres for a throat.
>
> Cheers,
> Paul
> http://www.galesendpress.com
> -- 
> Paul Marriner
> Outdoor Writing & Photography. Owner: Gale's End Press. Member: OWAA &
> OWC.
> Author of Stillwater Fly Fishing: Tools & Tactics, How to Choose & Use
> Fly-tying Thread, Modern Atlantic Salmon Flies, Miramichi River Journal,
> Ausable River Journal, and Atlantic Salmon.

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