You might find it easier if you include a wire in the wrapped stuff on the 
dowel:  I mean lay a thin wire in one of the grooves in the dowel, parallel 
with the dowel.  This goes down on the table, and makes it easier to push the 
stuff down in the table.  I've found that stuff like flashabou doesn't behave 
like hackle, but there's no reason it shouldn't wind up to some extent in the 
thread.  It may take more spinning than less.  The idea (ideally, that is) is 
to get each strand of fiber locked on each side by a bit of thread.  When they 
make chenille for commercial purposes, it's done on a loom - the shed is 
opened, a strand of fuzzy stuff is shot through; the shed is closed, locking in 
the fuzz, and opened again on the other side.  Each fuzzy strand is locked in 
on both sides with a strand of warp thread.  This is then cut into strands of 
chenille.  It is also spun into longer bits.  

This is what you're trying to do when you spin in the fibers with the magic 
tool.  It's esentially a drop spindle, and you're spinning what is called a 
"novelty yarn."  You can see these in yarn shops, with all kinds of stuff 
hanging off the main thread of the yarn.  It's all made the same way:  locking 
in the fibers with a twist of thread on either side of it.

If you clump up the synthetic too much, you won't get the seperation and 
locking in effect.  Put smaller amounts of flash around the dowel.  It will 
create its own space.  Don't push it up together in the clamp or on the thread. 
 You need space between the strands, and spin it enough to lock it in.
Wrap more around the hook to make a fuler body, and remember, these synthetics 
are going to generally be limper than hackle, and you may need to manipulate it 
with your left hand as you wrap it on.

Steve,
In Maryland
http://stevebrettell.point2homes.biz


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