Yes, we're talking about 2 pieces but not terribly splintered, However, there are two breaks running up the tip for an inch. I have been thinking about using a plain basswood insert turned on the wood lathe to fit inside, as I apply the sheet/resin on the outside. I definitely understand that the action will be changed some, but I am willing to do that. Its a good, cheap, usable rod which won't cause me a year's worth of heartburn if I break it by slamming the car door on it or something.
BTW...I am very interested in CF work. Since I dove headlong into biking once again this past year, I became pretty seriously engrossed in bike design and manufacturing, especially Carbon Fiber Lowracers, much like one made by a company velokraft: http://www.velokraft.com/nocom.htm so much so I am pretty serious when I say this summer I may be building one of my own. I planned on using a cubic jig (of course) made of 2x4s to lay the metal hardware in like the rear dropouts (metal inserts into which the rear wheel fits) and the front bottom bracket (where the cranks go) and the headtube (where the front fork fits into/goes through). I will make the core out of plain modeling foam, cut to shape and then wrap it with a layer of fiberglass for stiffness before i start the CF layup. Then I'll use standard 5.8oz fabric (thin so its better for the couple of tight spots I'll be working with) wetted with West Systems 206 (a slow(er)
hardener) since I will be working with a large layup. After each wrap I was thinking about using electric tape pocked with holes for squeezing out the excess resin after each layer but man that is going to be a lot of electirc tape thrown in the trash! So that is my 'don't try this at home' plan.
SJHassan.
Desert Eagle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Desert Eagle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Wow, Something I actually know about, (even have a certificate to prove it).
Question, is it a "clean" break, (by this is it 2 pieces and not badly
splintered)? "Typically" compound composite rods are made with 3 layers,
glass wound on the mandrel, carbon fiber lengthwise with a second glass
wound around it for 3 layers. The number of strands is gradually diminished
from butt to tip to get the action needed or desired. Then the resins are
applied 60/40 in proportion relating to the fibers by weight, heated and
vacuum bagged with bleeder/ breather over peal ply. This allows for a
uniform, repeatable system to make the rods.
Any repair will effect the action, at least some. The only problem is
forming a mandrel to fit inside, and determining the amount of material to
remove in a dished form to repair it with. It can be fixed, but the action
will change some.
Jimi
It is a 'composite' rod, made of both graphite and fiberglass (I think) and
has a really nasty looking break. It doesn't mesh together very well but
hey, it isn't going up on display or anything. I just need a joint so it
works...
I contemplated using a little bit of glass sheet and resin, but want to
consult with the 'experts' before taking any such drastic action.
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.2 - Release Date: 1/21/05
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
