I'll have to "study" On this email a while LOL... I think I understand it, but I'll give it a try and then see if I am following the directions right, or not.... I'll let ya know..... I guess it is like all things worth doing, takes practice, practice, practice, and have to do things in certain "steps" to get it right.....Building a chair is not "hard", per say, just have steps that you MUST follow in order (and PRACTICE) for it to be right, right????.... Chuck
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Spezio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 1:10 PM Subject: Re: [VFB] hooks > Not quite, The wing tips are tied in by the stems with the tips out over > the hook eye. Length is about 1 1/4 times the length of the shank. These > are not cut to shape unless you might be using a wing cutter. I normally > tie in the tail first. it would be the shank length. Make smooth wraps > over the tail material to the thorax area or hook eye. It can be done > either way. You should have a thread base where you are going to tie in > the wings. I don't want to complicate things but I now tie in the hackle > and leave it out of the way, then I tie in the wings as above. The > stripped stem ends are tied in facing the tail. Make smooth wraps over > the stem ends back up to where the wings will be upright at the thorax, > Lift the wings and form a thread dam in front of the wings to make them > stand up. Divide them with X or Figure 8 wraps to spread them apart. > Post the wings as I mentioned in the last message. Now bring the thread > back to the tail, tie in body material, bring the thread back up to the > thorax just behind the wings. Wrap the body and the rib if used and tie > off behind the wings. The hackle is already tied in so bring the thread > up to the eye, wrap a couple of turns of hackle behind the wings, > several in front of the wing and tie off. Having the hackle tied in like > it was, makes for a nice clean tie off at the hook eye. No tie in hackle > bump Now about the hackle. I have mentioned this several times in the > past so it might be old to some on the list. Find the SWEET part of the > hackle before tying it in. Take the hackle by the tip and butt end of > the stem. Form an upside down "U" and work the stem around the bend of > the "U". You will see where the "U" becomes a lot narrower. It will > almost "jump" at that point. Only use the hackle from that narrow point > to the tip. The rest is trash. A lot of new tyers will try to use the > whole hackle and end discarding the best part near the tip. > There are still other ways, it is how I do it. > This is more that you asked for, I hope it will help you tie a better > dry fly. > Tony > > Chuck Alexander wrote: > > >Tony, I see, so you are leaving the quill portion intact???? and sewing in > >the matching pair of "wings"????? Then, do you just trim the wings to size > >and/or shape??? Thanks, Chuck > > > > > > > > > > > > > >>Chuck, > >>The wings are not Biots, on the original they were Fan Wings made from > >>small breast feathers. Now a days most use synthetic materials like Poly > >>Yarn or Antron. The wings can also be made from tips of neck hackles. > >>Tie them in with the tips out beyond the eye of the hook. Then lift the > >>tips and build a dam of thread in front of the tie in point. This will > >>keep the wings upright, separate the feather tips ,left and right and > >>post the base of each feather. By posting that means wrapping thread > >>around the base of each feather to keep them separated. Do this before > >>dubbing or wrapping the body. There is a lot more that can be done, that > >>is just the basic part of it. > >>Tony > >> > >>Chuck Alexander wrote: > >> > >> > >> > >>> > >>> > >
