Chuck,
An easy way to know and remember the untwist method for whatever way
you're
tying is to wrap 20 or so wraps right at the eye of a hookeye and then
just
let the bobbin hang (best to use a flat or mono tying thread the 1st time
you do this). The bobbin will slowly spin in the direction you need to
spin
it to untwist the thread. To see if you have neutral twist in your thread
(none), just put some slack in the thread between the bobbin and hook.
The
thread will furl up into a loop if you have twist. Spin your bobbin and
try
again. If you removed the twist, the furl cannot happen. If you spin it
too much, the furl will happen in the opp. direction. It's not as readily
apparant with superfine midge-type threads as it is with flat threads.
If you're ever working on a small fly and have to make a loose wrap to
position your material, you'll notice a little mini-furl as you're trying
to
make a slack loop, especially with the stiffer fine threads. Just hang
and
spin your bobbin to neutral again and make your slack wrap again- it will
lay right down.
If you're dealing with flat thread and need the flatness for what you're
doing, remember that you twist it one twist for every turn of thread you
tie. It's just physics. It's the same reason you don't reel a spinning
reel while the line is not coming in = line twist. Just remember to
untwist
as you go or as you need to.
I tie with a lot of nylon mono thread- lots and lots of it- miles of it.
Buy it by the case. Round nylon thread is very susceptible to twist. One
way I minimize twist is to work my bobbin very close to the hook- the
minimum I can manage. This forces line twists onto the hook rather than
letting the twists build up in the distance between the bobbin and hook.
When I tie a marlin fly, I use an entire spool of mono thread, but never
have to spin out twist. I make wraps with the bobbin tip about an inch
from
the material. I do this with all flies, it's just more necessary with the
giant ones with nylon thread.
I find that the only times I spin the thread is working floss on slamon
flies, making a nice smooth head , or tying #32's.
Hope that helps, too.
DonO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Spezio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 7:31 AM
Subject: RE: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question
Nick has some good pointers, I well just add to this.
If you are tying right handed wrapping away from you,
to remove the twist, grasp the bobbin by the neck and
spin it "TOWARDS" the hook eye. This will untwist the
thread. If you are tying left handed towards you, (I
have seen this done)thread will untwist itself.
Left handed tyers, If I am wrong, correct me. Most
left handed tyers I have seen tie like right handers.
Now that should be a thread, left and right hand
tyers.
Tony
--- Niclas Runarsson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Chuck,
>
> Check out
> http://www.gudebrod.com/fishing2005/BorgerColor.htm
> for an online
> Borger Color System chart.
>
> Further info on your threads:
> Your black 8/0 is a 67 Denier thread. Quite thin
> compared to most other
> manufacturers 8/0's. The fact that you have no
> problem with tying it off
> doesn't surprise me.
> Your 6/0 is a 125 Denier thread which is quite a
> difference to the 8/0. Try
> to untwist it before whip-finishing and see if that
> helps. It did for me.
>
> /Nick
>
>
>
> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För
> Anthony Spezio
> Skickat: den 1 oktober 2006 14:22
> Till: [email protected]
> Ämne: Re: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question
>
>
> The BCS before the # is BOGER COLOR SYSTEM. A # is
> assigned to a particular color. The 20's are Green
> shades,, 40's Yellow shades, 70's Red shades
> 90's Brown shades and the 100's Dark Colors, Gray's
> Blues and Black.
> Gary Borgers fly pattern recipies are written up
> using
> his coloring system numbers as are some other
> recipes.
> There is a little booklet with the color charts on
> them. You can get one from a flyshop that carries
> Gudebrod thread, they are also available on line.
> "Borger Color System Guide and Data Record Booklet"
> Just for info.
> Tony
>
> --- Chuck Alexander
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > MeddelandeNick: Thanks for the info.. I have only
> > three spools and only tried two.. I have a red
> 6/0
> > #BCS85 125 denier a black 8/0 BCS 118(don't know
> > the denier on it, but I suspect about 80-90, but
> it
> > tied off OK) The one I had trouble with, as I was
> > trying to tie chili peppers with it is a 6/0 Fire
> > Orange BCS77 125 denier...It is the one that gave
> me trouble.. The
> > red, like i said is the same weight, but I haven't
> tried it. I'm
> > starting to think that I just made too many winds
> on the whip finish..
> > Chuck
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Niclas Runarsson
> > To: [email protected]
> > Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 1:16 PM
> > Subject: RE: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question
> >
> >
> > With a 'G' on the rim of the spool, it should be
> > size G polyester thread (250 Denier)... thick
> > thread. Gel spun thread would make it 'GX 1' or
> 'GX
> > 2' on the rim (and the thread white).
> >
> > Gudebrod tying threads are quite generously
> waxed
> > compared to most other threads, but personally
> I've
> > never found it making them 'slippery'. The
> > difference I would note is that it makes them
> easier
> > to dub, they hold the materials better... and it
> > keeps the filaments from coming apart.
> >
> > Which size is it you're having the whip-finish
> > problem with?
> >
> > /Nick
> > -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> > Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För Peter
> Gramp
> > Skickat: den 30 september 2006 19:54
> > Till: [email protected]
> > Ämne: Re: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question
> >
> >
> > Hey, Chuck! What type of thread is it? I
> know
> > the brand is Gudebrod, but some of their products
> > are 'slipperier' than others. If it is gel-spun
> (it
> > has a G on the rim of the spool), you can take a
> > quick pass of a lighter to melt it... but I almost
> > always burn some hackle or something - like my
> > goatee - if doing that.) ;) When you tie the
> whip
> > finish, try to do it on bare hook-stem, continuing
> > the thread in the same way it was wrapped just
> > prior. What else... hmm... 6 rotations is plenty
> > for even the largest of flies -- one of my biggest
> > faults 9at least with tying flies) is a monstrous
> > head with a zillion wraps for the whip-finish.
> The
> > bulk of the knot keeps it from tightening fully,
> so
> > it then comes loose and the fly starts to 'un-tie'
> > itself. It could honestly be any number of
> things,
> > but they're the ones I've experienced firsthand,
> and
> > I've seen it often in others, both older tyers and
> > newer ones.
> > Hope that this helps, and feel free to ask
> more
> > questions - though I'll be out fishin' for the
> first
> > time in literally months!
> > Best wishes and tight wraps,
> > Pete
> >
> >
> > On 9/30/06, Chuck Alexander
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> > Folks: It's probably something a "rookie
> tier"
> > like myself is doing wrong, but when Nick brought
> up Guderbrod thread
> > yesterday I think it was..Well, I tried that
> brand, and I CANNOT get
> > the whip finish knot NOT to unravel.. No matter if
> I whip finish
> > 3-4-5-6 etc rounds, if I snipped off the thread
> > really close, it (the knot) would come unraveled,
> > like some of the nylon ropes that there are that
> > just will not hold a knot..Like it has more wax
> than
> > it needed??? So, I have been using Uni Thread and
> > Danville's with no problems..The thread (The
> > Guderbrod) "feels" like great thread, so, am i
> doing
> > something wrong??? Cause I have a few spools and
> > hate to see anything go to waste, Thanks, Chuck
> >
> >
> >
>
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