Only colour flybacks work with colour CRTs, as colour CRTs require a much
higher voltage. (30,000 as opposed to 3,000 volts, approximately)
On May 4, 2012 8:14 AM, "mike stedman" <[email protected]> wrote:

> This is probably as good of a place to ask as any - which flybacks are
> interchangeable with the Color Classic? Can I use ones from other colour
> CRTs or is this a pretty one-off affair with the tiny Trinitron?
>
> On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 11:27 AM, dale-gmail <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> **
>> hi;
>>
>> have a analog board out of a classic II.
>> seems to work just fine.
>> (motherboard went bad)
>> works on a classic II or classic..
>> just for shipping.
>>
>>
>> dale
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* TT <[email protected]>
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 03, 2012 11:04 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: Flyback Transformer
>>
>> I think my flyback transformer has finally failed.  The CRT is now
>> blacking-out and refreshing the solder joints at P1 and the transformer has
>> not helped.  A classic Mac repair guide by Tom Lee indicates the flyback
>> transformer was a poor design choice and I am wondering if anyone knows if
>> there are more robust alternatives.  Finding a new flyback is proving to be
>> difficult.  Would later model Mac flybacks work such as the ones for the
>> Classic or Classic II?  Does anyone have a known good analog board that
>> they are interested in selling?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> tt
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 2:39 PM, Doug McNutt <[email protected]>wrote:
>>
>>> At 15:57 -0400 11/1/11, Charles E. Fox wrote:
>>> >At 02:04 PM 01/11/2011, you wrote:
>>> >
>>> >>On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 2:34 AM, Charles E. Fox <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>> >>> --      Many years ago when I did TV repairs we used to apply stuff
>>> called
>>> >>> corona dope. Try Radio Shack.
>>> >>
>>> >>Interesting suggestion.  I did a little more searching and read that
>>> >>sometimes flyback transformers can crack from overheating or aging.
>>> >>If the internal high voltage is creating a corona/plasma since it is
>>> >>exposed to air, does it mean that my transformer is still OK?  I am
>>> >>guessing if there was internal shorting, that the part would already
>>> >>have gone bad.  Does the corona dope need to seep into the transformer
>>> >>to fill voids or do I just need to seal the cracked surface of the
>>> >>transformer?
>>> >>
>>> >>Thanks,
>>> >>tt
>>> >>
>>> >>--    I haven't had occasion to use this stuff in fifty years, but
>>> don't think you will harm anything by applying it in the area where the
>>> corona is visable and letting it dry before powering up.
>>> >>
>>>
>>> Neat pictures. It really helps to open the dark one in something that
>>> allows you to play with colors and contrast.  But I don't have any answers
>>> and it's not a cracked solder joint.
>>>
>>> Those coils, inside, are probably would with metal foil that looks a lot
>>> like the aluminum sticky tape that comes in a roll.  It's conceivable that
>>> one turn is sparling to its neighbor and somehow the light is getting piped
>>> to the top where it gets out. But through the opaque plastic covering?
>>>
>>> The red paste looks like GE Glyptal, a paint like product that is found
>>> in laboratories and used for the likes of repairing small vacuum leaks and
>>> high voltage insulation. I wouldn't expect to find it on a new flyback coil
>>> especially in a hand painted blob. Someone else may have been bothered by
>>> the sparks.
>>>
>>> I'm staring at an SE analog board from which I have stolen parts.
>>>  Flyback in a case like the picture 157-0042A  TAI-HO Taiwan 08730 visible
>>> on the coil near C13.   Colorado Springs. CO USA 80919. Want to try it out?
>>> I seriously doubt that I'll ever get around to using it.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> --> From the U S of A, the only socialist country that refuses to admit
>>> it. <--
>>>
>>> --
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>>
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